Women’s Day: Chef Sam Tran and her journey to redefine contemporary Vietnamese cuisine through the philosophy of yin and yang

Vietnamese cuisine is rich, beautiful, and sophisticated, yet is often described as “rustic”. For you, where does its true beauty lie, and what inspires you to tell those stories through your dishes?

Sam Tran: Vietnamese cuisine is indeed abundant and intricate, but it is often reduced to the word “rustic”. For me, its true beauty lies in the care, the subtle layers of flavour, and the techniques passed down through generations, elements that can only be fully appreciated if one has grown up within that culture.

I see that beauty in a jar of fish sauce carefully distilled over time, in the unmeasured but perfectly balanced seasoning, or in a family meal that always harmonises colour, flavour, and yin and yang. These are not “rustic” in the simple sense. They are an aesthetic and a craft, born from observation and inherited wisdom.

My inspiration comes from memory: from family, from human connection, from the warmth of shared meals. I often wonder how to tell those familiar stories so that people truly listen and feel them. How can a dish be both delicious and unforgettable?

Every dish I make is an answer to that question. I don’t try to “modernise” Vietnamese food to make it fashionable; I try to express its soul with respect, technique, and sincere emotion.

Vietnamese ingredients may seem familiar, yet in your hands they become fresh and surprising. Can you share your journey of discovery and how you bring these ingredients to life?

Sam Tran: I don’t think I “breathe soul” into ingredients; they already have their own. I simply take a step back and listen to their stories. Every Vietnamese ingredient carries the memory of the land where it grows, the people who nurture it, and the moments I have been fortunate to experience.

My journey began with a simple love for food. I loved wandering through towns and villages to taste a dish locals insisted was a “must-try”. I focused not just on the flavours, but on why it was cooked that way, why a certain herb or fish was chosen. Each ingredient, I realised, has a personality. Some need gentle handling, others require long, patient cooking to open up.

I don’t aim to recreate traditional dishes, but to let ingredients live another life, sometimes simpler, sometimes unexpected, while keeping the essence of Vietnamese culinary culture intact.

When building Gia, did you imagine how it would stand apart in Hanoi’s dining scene and in the increasingly competitive F&B market?

Sam Tran: When I started with Gia, I didn’t think much about being “different”. I simply wanted to create a place where Vietnamese cuisine could be seen with seriousness and affection.

Hanoi has many familiar restaurants, and I value that. It’s from those everyday eateries that I learned what makes a complete Vietnamese meal. But at Gia, we tell those stories in a slower, deeper voice, sometimes by recreating a dish from memory, sometimes by evoking the emotion it carries.

If Gia stands out, it’s probably for our perseverance. We don’t follow trends or chase novelty. We move slowly, seeking to understand ourselves and our cuisine better. In a demanding market, I hope that sincerity is still enough to reach people.

In your view, a beautiful restaurant isn’t only about good food. As Gia’s guiding force, how do you define beauty in cuisine?

Sam Tran: For me, beauty in cuisine doesn’t lie in elaborate plating or complex techniques. It begins with sincerity in how ingredients are chosen, how dishes are understood, and how they’re served to touch someone’s emotions.

Every ingredient tells a story. If you’re patient enough to listen, it will guide you naturally. Technique is secondary; what matters is preserving the ingredient’s soul.

I always try to evoke emotion in my dishes, a flavour that lingers, a presentation that makes someone smile, or a sense of harmony that makes diners want to stay a little longer. A beautiful restaurant, to me, doesn’t need to say something grand. It just needs to touch something small but real within each person.

What have been the most emotional moments in your kitchen — a dish, a guest, or a memory that affirmed your path?

Sam Tran: About three years ago, I welcomed an American family, a couple and their seven-year-old son. After dinner, they came to the kitchen. The mother told us the boy loved cooking and dreamed of joining MasterChef America. Their meal at Gia had inspired him greatly.

He asked for a photo with the team, and his mother said they’d frame it for their wall. That moment touched not only me but also the younger chefs in our kitchen. It reminded us why we started, cooking to bring joy to others.

How do you balance your own expectations, work pressure, and customer demands?

Sam Tran: For me, the relationship between a chef and diners is like a love story. If the diner takes one step towards me, I’ll take the other 999. I can’t make people love me; I can only listen and understand what they want. When they open up, I can then express my own voice; that’s where my expectations find their place. As for pressure, it’s just another spice in love.

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Looking back, what do you think is the greatest gift food has given you, a lesson, a teacher, or joy?

Sam Tran: Life itself (laughs). Everyone eats to live, but for me, food has been a greater gift that holds passion, purpose, and motivation. It has brought me friends, mentors, colleagues, and the chance to connect with people around the world along with joy, sadness, love, and frustration.

How have you changed over the years?

Sam Tran: Probably older (laughs). But also more mature. My passion and curiosity, though, remain as strong as ever.

In leading your team and shaping Gia’s identity, have you noticed that small gestures or decisions of yours have become a “language” that inspires others?

Sam Tran: Many times, both positively and otherwise. I’ve realised what my parents used to say, “Be a mirror for your younger siblings,” is very true. Every small word or action of mine can influence those around me, whether I intend it or not.

Have you ever had to confront stereotypes about leadership, the kitchen, or yourself to stay true to who you are while challenging perceptions of women in the kitchen?

Sam Tran: I don’t follow any model or aim to fight stereotypes. I simply live and believe in what I do every day. Each person has their own leadership style. There’s no absolute right or wrong. What matters is self-reflection and learning, to become a better version of oneself.

What keeps you passing on your fire to others, even after so many challenges?

Sam Tran: Sometimes when I’m tired, I think about doing something less exhausting. But then I remind myself that giving up is always easier than persevering. Once I’ve chosen this path, I won’t stop walking it.

In Gia’s kitchen, Sam Tran is known for her unique personality and meticulous attention to every ingredient and dish. Her creativity shines through her menus rather than words. Every detail, every touch of discipline, has shaped Gia into a restaurant that is refined, graceful, and deeply resonant. Her fiery “yang” energy forms the core, while Gia’s soft “yin” qualities radiate outward, touching every diner’s heart.

This article was adapted from the original piece published in Tatler Vietnam, August 2025 issue.

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