From Asia to Vietnam: the contemporary generation of Asian chefs reshaping culinary culture

Taiwan, meanwhile, has witnessed a transformation of its culinary identity, led by chefs like Andre Chiang. After founding the two-Michelin-starred Restaurant ANDRÉ in Singapore, once ranked among Asia’s finest, he returned to Taipei to launch RAW. There, he developed his concept of “Octaphilosophy”, an approach based on eight key elements that define each dish. Through this philosophy, Chiang introduced a fresh culinary language, masterfully merging the refined precision of French technique with Asia’s unbridled creativity and spirit.

No longer merely a “satellite of Asia”, Southeast Asia is now leaving its own indelible mark on the world’s fine dining map. In Thailand, Indian-born chef Gaggan Anand has revolutionised contemporary Indian cuisine, transforming familiar street food into witty, theatrical experiences. Take his “Yoghurt Explosion” or “Lick It Up”, the latter served without cutlery, encouraging diners to engage with the plate… quite literally. With his playful presentations, pop-culture flair and rule-breaking ingenuity, Gaggan has become a culinary icon far beyond Asia.

In Kuala Lumpur, chef Darren Teoh of Dewakan is spearheading a new vision for Malaysian cuisine. Rejecting imported produce, he instead sources exclusively from the local landscape—wild greens, edible insects, earthy roots and fermented mushrooms—crafting a menu deeply rooted in Malaysia’s tropical terroir. His cooking not only showcases native flavours but also redefines what a modern Malaysian table can be.

Dubbed the “kitchen of the world” by the “father” of modern marketing Philip Kotler, Vietnam has seen remarkable growth in its F&B industry in recent years. According to a report by Mordor Intelligence, the Vietnamese food and beverage market is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.95 per cent between 2024 and 2029, reaching a value of USD 60.4 billion by the end of the period. This growth not only reflects economic potential, but also affirms the increasingly prominent position of Vietnamese cuisine on the global map.

Central to this rise is a new generation of chefs, individuals redefining Vietnamese cuisine with creativity and a global outlook. Notable names include Viet Hong (Ciel Dining), Summer Le (Nen), and Hoang Tung (TUNG Dining), all of whom have played a role in elevating Vietnamese gastronomy on the world stage. Among them, chef Sam Tran, founder of Gia in Hanoi, stands out for her philosophy of “telling stories through taste”. Every dish at Gia draws from culture, with a focus on local ingredients and a refined approach to familiar fare. Traditional recipes like braised fish, Thanh Tri rice rolls, and plain white rice are reimagined and presented in fine dining form.

Another figure of note is chef Peter Cuong Franklin of Anan Saigon. With a deft hand, he merges the finesse of French technique with vivid memories of Vietnamese cuisine. The result is a distinctive line-up of dishes, from caviar-laced bread to 48-hour sous-vide wagyu pho, and a modern take on broken rice. While serving an international clientele, restaurants like Anan also encourage local diners to rediscover their own cuisine from a contemporary perspective.

Today’s modern Asian chefs are moving beyond a Western-centric approach, turning confidently to inspiration drawn from their own heritage. Ingredients once considered too humble or rustic such as ant eggs, fish sauce, or mac mat leaves are now making their way to internationally recognised tables.

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In Japan, this is not only a trend but also a way of life. Most of the country’s world-renowned restaurants focus on the essential foundations of Japanese cuisine such as sushi, sashimi, tempura and more. Similarly, contemporary Chinese chefs are embracing new interpretations of familiar dishes, infusing them with personal flair to refresh and elevate this richly diverse cuisine. One example is chef Tran An Duc, the first person in China to be awarded three Michelin stars. He revitalised Long Canh Hien restaurant by deftly integrating French culinary techniques and ingredients into traditional Cantonese fare. The result has drawn an influx of international diners, challenging long-held prejudices that Chinese food is overly heavy, greasy or deep-fried.

Although Asian cuisine draws from a tapestry of culinary cultures, it remains deeply rooted in its own identity. The region evokes images of vibrant seafood markets, bustling street food stalls and agile food carts across Thailand, Vietnam, Korea and beyond, scenes that continue to fascinate Western visitors. But bringing these rich traditions into the high-end culinary sphere, with its high standards and discerning clientele, requires serious effort and innovation. For chefs in these countries, the task is as much about preservation as it is about elevation.

A new culinary philosophy has also emerged in recent years that prioritises the local, the seasonal and the sustainable. Viewing food as an ethical act, many chefs from Japan, Thailand, Vietnam and Taiwan are embracing this approach. They actively seek out the freshest ingredients available in their immediate surroundings, while striving to minimise waste throughout the cooking process. In doing so, they not only honour nature, but also contribute to environmental protection and long-term sustainability.

Restaurants such as Nusantara by Locavore in Indonesia and Toyo Eatery in the Philippines embody this responsible creativity. These establishments demonstrate that Asian cuisine can reach the highest levels of international recognition, winning over even the most exacting diners with its finesse, originality and the thoughtful narratives behind each plate.

When compared with generations of chefs from Europe or the United States, many of whom are steeped in fine dining and the classical training of institutions like Le Cordon Bleu in France or the Culinary Institute of America, Asia’s contemporary chefs are forging a distinctive path of their own. While Western cuisine often emphasises technical prowess, rare ingredients and personal storytelling, many Asian chefs now turn inward for inspiration. Rooted in place and culture, their creations increasingly showcase local identity rather than mirror foreign trends.

This shift is evident in the evolving styles of Asian chefs across Vietnam, Thailand and Taiwan. Rather than merely adopting Western culinary methods, they blend traditional wisdom with modern perspectives, leveraging the richness of local produce to create something entirely new. It’s a bold transformation that not only diversifies the global culinary landscape but also enhances the presence and prestige of Asian gastronomy on the world stage.

In Japan, the F&B industry transcends the notion of ordinary service, reaching levels of extreme precision and refinement. Renowned establishments such as Jiro Sushi and Den stand as testament. Every aspect of the guest experience from language and gestures to purposeful pauses is meticulously orchestrated to create an impeccable dining moment. Meanwhile, Korea’s food and beverage landscape has experienced impressive growth, bolstered by the global rise of Korean pop culture. This synergy has birthed standout names like Jungsik (Seoul and New York), where Korean cuisine is reimagined through a modern lens, giving rise to a youthful, forward-looking movement known as “new Korean cuisine”.

Although still relatively young compared to its Asian neighbours, Vietnam’s F&B industry is undergoing a dynamic and promising transformation. The emergence of fine dining and elevated casual dining concepts, paired with meaningful investment in native ingredients, reflects a new generation of Vietnamese chefs unafraid to explore and innovate.

A clear shift is underway among contemporary Asian chefs. No longer confined to the back of house, they have become curators of cultural identity. Each dish becomes a medium through which technique meets memory, and personal vision is expressed. With a foundation of solid culinary skills, a locally grounded yet modern perspective, and an appetite for discovery, this generation is shaping a bold new narrative for Asian cuisine—one that is self-assured, expressive and firmly claiming its seat at the global table.

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