Viet Hong and Thanh Liem, co-founders of CieL Dining: “To do cuisine, first of all, you must be free”

When asked about the culinary direction of CieL Dining, especially in an era when many restaurants craft meticulously choreographed narratives through design and menu, Chef Viet Hong responded with disarming honesty: “We don’t have any concept. We aim for freedom, from the design of the house, the people to the dishes. The menu here has no limits in creativity. Just do whatever you like, it’s that simple.”

This sense of creative liberation has been central to Chef Viet Hong’s philosophy from the start. Rather than aligning with a particular school such as Vietnamese or French cuisine, he chose a more open, exploratory path—not out of indifference to Vietnamese food, but because, in his own words, “he only dares to make Vietnamese food when he feels truly good at it.” The intimacy of CieL is not only drawn from the space or the people but also from the way they regard ingredients as the emotional core of each dish. “Currently, our menu cannot use 100% of ingredients from Vietnam,” he shares candidly. “But that doesn’t mean we don’t think about sustainability.” Rather than taking a rigid stance, CieL embraces a natural rhythm guided by flexibility and deep respect for the seasons. The priority is always the best and most flavourful, whether sourced from Japan, France, or the highlands of Lam Dong and Hoa Binh.

Vietnam offers a wealth of exceptional produce, though not all of it is yet suited to the demands of a fine dining kitchen. “CieL doesn’t just need ‘good’ ingredients, but the best—those that bring consistency, top quality, and a meaningful story,” says Chef Viet Hong. One such story lies in the wild duck from Hoa Binh. More than an ingredient, it represents a movement. The farmers raising this breed are young Vietnamese who studied agriculture in the Netherlands and returned with knowledge to trial sustainable practices in their homeland. “The day I held that duck in my hands, I knew it was an outstanding ingredient. I’ve never seen one so meticulously cared for, from its feed to its habitat. And what makes it even more special is that it’s from Vietnam.”

This philosophy extends to every detail, right down to the vegetables. Take watercress, for instance. “Though they share a name, lowland watercress tends to have tougher stems and a bitter aftertaste. But when it’s grown at altitudes above 700 metres, where the air is crisp and the soil rich, it tastes entirely different—sweeter, softer, more refined,” Chef Viet Hong explains.

CieL’s tasting menu is, in essence, a journey through memory. It flows from Chef Viet Hong’s early days studying in France to his time working in kitchens across Japan, Denmark, and Spain. These recollections are distilled and reimagined in every course to open emotional gateways for each diner. CieL doesn’t chase after ‘expensive’ ingredients. It seeks authenticity, true quality paired with a story that matters. This quiet ethos emerges through the evolving dishes, the increasing presence of Vietnamese ingredients, and a respect for seasonality. There is no need to proclaim grand concepts or messages; CieL allows its values to speak softly, through the land, the people, and its own evolving culinary path.

If Chef Viet Hong’s dishes are the soul of CieL, then Liem’s role centres on operations, which in most restaurants might seem straightforward when focused on customer experience. But at CieL, it goes further. “Before diners step into the kitchen, or even arrive at the restaurant, the experience has already begun. From the moment they make a reservation to the time they leave, every detail must be considered to create a complete, seamless feeling.”

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This requires not only a clear operational mindset but also a deep sensitivity to customer psychology, an understanding of what guests need to see, what they’re drawn to, and what stirs their curiosity. “Marketing isn’t just about filling seats,” Liem explains. “It’s about awakening curiosity in the right way, inspiring people to explore and step into the private world we’ve created.” He calls it the Pre-Dining Experience, those early touchpoints between the brand and its guests, long before the appetisers arrive. And to him, it’s every bit as important as the main course.

With CieL, one of the more personal ideas that Chef Viet Hong and Liem wanted to incorporate is inspired by the tale of the “frog at the bottom of a well.” “There was a time I thought I knew a lot,” Liem shares, “but when I stepped into the world, I realised I was just a small frog at the bottom of a well. That’s why we have a skylight here. At CieL, it doesn’t face the diners, it faces us. It’s a reminder that we must continue learning, to go further, to see more.”

“If you go to a restaurant, sit down, eat, and leave, and the only thing that lingers is the food, then perhaps the restaurant has fulfilled its role,” Liem continues. “But at CieL, we want to build a connection. That’s why Hong and I are there every day. Not to supervise, but to listen. Sometimes through the food, sometimes through a simple exchange. Just enough to let our guests know they’re seen.”

No dress code. No expectations. No formalities imposed. When guests walk into CieL, they’re invited to leave behind the suits, return to their most natural selves, take a seat and begin their own journey. Sustainability, here, means something different. It’s about making every guest feel heard. To be fully present, with no need to follow any script or template. That, for Hong and Liem, is the true definition of luxury.

Rather than chase media headlines, CieL focuses on what they call “in-house marketing”, where each guest becomes a brand ambassador. And each return visit is met with subtle changes in the menu, tailored to create a sense of personal attention. It’s the look of recognition when someone holds their fork a certain way. It’s the wine glass refilled, simply because someone remembered a guest’s favourite vintage. It’s the meal shaped to reflect the person across the table.

For the founding pair, CieL Dining is a milestone, a marker of growth after years of exploration and trial. A place to say: we’ve made it through. We’ve weathered the toughest moments in this profession, collecting lessons and fragments from every chapter of our training and work to finally shape a culinary story that feels both humble and profound. And in that, they take pride in having created something that is wholly their own.

“It’s like a test, but also a quiet statement that yes, we can do this. Not just survive, but move forward. To be more resilient. That is sustainability.” – Liem reaffirmed.

And for CieL, for Hong and Liem, what truly matters isn’t how many people know their names, but how many genuinely want to return.

This article was adapted from the original feature published in Tatler – Nha Tap Tinh Hoa Vol. 7: Khai Thien.

To own the latest issue of Tatler Vietnam (Vietnamese language) – Nha Tap Tinh Hoa, please visit the link here: https://shorturl.at/mMHOv

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