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Running until August 15, Ayá offers a taste of delicious things to come when Hapag opens on the 7th floor of the prime Rockwell property in Makati
Hapag Manila— the Quezon City outpost for progressive Filipino dining of chefs Kevin Navoa and Thirdy Dolatre— continues to excite their fans in the south with another pop-up in the lobby of The Balmori Suites in Rockwell, Makati City. Called Ayá— the Filipino word that means “to invite”— it is a call to gather with friends and family over a sumptuous meal accompanied by delicious libations.
Chef Nav describes the pop-up concept as “a preview” of the larger upper level of Hapag when it opens on the 7th floor of the same building in a few months, a sprawling bar serving small plates to accompany the inventive cocktails inspired by local ingredients and flavours. The smaller space on the lower level will continue to serve the innovative seasonal tasting menus that landed the duo on Tatler Dining’s 20 Best for 2023 and 50 Best Discovery List 2022. Currently, the lobby of the Balmori houses Ayá which was spruced up by talented interior designer Isabel Lozano, who is also Hapag’s consultant for front-of-house training. The high ceilings and dramatic lighting enhance the plush dining area rendered cosy and inviting with plump throw pillows and warm table lamps.
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While sommelier Erin Ganuelas remains in charge of Hapag’s wine program, beverage consultant and award-winning mixologist Arcadius Rybak was called in to concoct some unique cocktails that will go seamlessly with the modern Filipino “tapas” of chefs Nav and Thirdy. Rybak uses only infused syrups and fresh fruit purées for the refreshing tropical flavours required in his mezcal margarita and the potent dalandan gimlet, as well as the intoxicating aromas of the banana pandan old-fashioned.
As for the dishes, Aya’s small plates are the chefs’ clever reinventions of Filipino bar chow favourites, appetizers, and rice bowls. Munch on the gamet kropek with fermented red pepper aioli, the sisig-like warek-warek, and their adobo liver mousse spread over kamote brioche. The okoy and pearls is a tasty update on the classic shrimp fritters with whole baby crabs and a pinakurat cream topped with ikura. For those looking for something heartier, there are rice dishes such as the beef short rib kare-kare with bagoong rice and Katipunan Express, which is grilled pork belly served with spicy coconut-sweet potato puree and garlic atsuete rice on the side. The surprising scene-stealer is a mushroom dinakdakan silog served with a 65° egg and garlic-atsuete rice.
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After making operational adjustments for a smoother and less draining lunch and dinner service, the Ayá team has been performing at peak levels for a packed dining room from Tuesday to Sunday, while Hapag’s QC home remains operational. The pop-up has retained a by-reservation-only policy to ensure they never get overwhelmed and that their guests have an enjoyable experience.
Chef Nav shares that they are happy with the reception they are getting in Makati and the team is eager to settle into their new home. “The Rockwell crowd has been very welcoming and kind,” he says. “They seem to appreciate what we’ve been doing at our pop-ups and are always nice enough to share encouraging words and constructive feedback.” When asked if the menu is exactly what they will be serving on the 7th floor when they open, chef Nav explains: “We will probably just keep the bar chow. The rice dishes and desserts were just added for the pop-up.”
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
