Cover Discover the full breadth of Shanghainese cuisine at Hua Yuan
Discover the full breadth of Shanghainese cuisine at Hua Yuan
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Headed by executive chef Xu Qiao “Kevin” Yuan, Hua Yuan boasts authentic, thoughtfully crafted Shanghainese cuisine
As one of the oldest food cultures in the world, Chinese food is as ubiquitous as they are unique. Each region’s style is influenced by what’s available, where they’re located and who is consuming their food. The menu at Hua Yuan Brasserie Chinoise whisks its diners to Shanghai. Its dishes emphasise the quality of ingredients and the wide breadth of techniques used in their creation. The latest dishes on their menu, curated by chef Xu Qiao “Kevin” Yuan, incorporate flavours from across China, all while retaining the distinct flair of Shanghainese cuisine. Together, these qualities position the restaurant as a rare gem amidst Manila’s bustling culinary scene.
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Located in Hilton Manila Newport World Resorts, Hua Yuan catches your eye with its sleek, dark interiors softly illuminated by subtle lights. The diamond-tufted sofas, triangle-patterned marble floors and refined décor are a nod to the city’s past and French influences. Their three private rooms, which can seat up to 15, are perfect for celebrating important milestones and even office get-togethers. These rooms can be combined for larger gatherings and occasions.
Shanghainese cuisine, or “benbang”, is influenced by the nearby provinces of Jiangsu and Zhenjiang. The city’s historic ties to the international community, combined with local ingredients and cooking techniques, have resulted in a rich variety of flavour profiles that are sure to surprise even the most refined palate. Hua Yuan’s refreshed menu draws upon the different regions of China to complement its core identity as a Shanghainese dining establishment.
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“The new dishes on the menu, I’ve transferred from China to Manila,” chef Kevin explains. A Shanghai native himself, he boasts an illustrious career spanning 30 years, seven of which have been at Hilton Manila. He has an infectious laughter that makes him approachable, and he wears his passion for cooking on his sleeve. “Here [in the Philippines], the tastes are different, so I’m always thinking [of] how to change it,” he muses. “In Shanghainese [cuisine], the dishes have Manila’s [preferred flavours]. A little salt, a little sweet, a little spicy.” The menu was thus chosen to better fit local palates while retaining their essence.
“All the dishes are my recommendations,” chef Kevin jokes. But he names three of their must-try fare: the Nanjing salted duck, mini abalone and pork belly in claypot rice and braised lion’s head—which conceals a delightful surprise of salted egg inside.
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Tatler was able to try two of Hua Yuan’s latest offerings. The Nanjing salted duck is brined and prepared with a mixture of spices, including cloves and cinnamon. Served cold, its tender centre is packed with dense flavours that completely envelop you, making the 20-minute preparation time more than worth the wait. Meanwhile, their deep-fried salt and pepper cod is also a must-try with just the right amount of crunch and heat. It is plated alongside rice crisps for a playful change as you alternate between them.
Among the restaurant’s classics, be sure to start with their deep-fried softshell crab coated with salted egg yolk. It delights with its crunchy exterior and is light enough to keep you wanting more. This is beautifully contrasted with their wok-fried minced mushroom, thanks to its springy texture and ever-so-slight firmness. The earthy notes are even more prevalent paired with the truffle sauce and balanced by the asparagus.
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Black truffle is a tricky ingredient, capable of overpowering other flavours if you’re not careful. But chef Kevin and Hua Yuan use it liberally in their menu, delicately striking a balance that brings out the best of each ingredient. Their black truffle fried rice is an excellent example of their mastery, and it is a thoughtfully crafted reimagining of a beloved classic. At first bite its earthy tones strike first, but it is followed by the fluffiness of egg and herbaceousness of finely-chopped scallions.
Each plate that exits Hua Yuan’s kitchen carries a distinct flavour that sets it apart from other dishes on the menu. “If a guest orders five dishes,” chef Kevin remarks, “Each of those five will not taste the same. You try this one, it’s a surprise. You try another, it’s a surprise. Each one is different.” Variety is the spice of life, and this establishment embraces this saying wholeheartedly.
Rediscover Shanghainese flavours at Hua Yuan. For reservations and inquiries, contact +63 917 851 4044, 7239-7788 or email MNLPH_F&B at inquiries@hilton.com.
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Photography: courtesy of Hua Yuan
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About
Tobias wants to write things that make people think, laugh, and reflect. He’s especially proud when he can sneak in a cheeky pop-culture reference or a pun in his titles and articles.
He possesses a deep love of history, resulting from years of books, games, and museum visits. It was this fascination with the human endeavour that fostered his love of writing, spanning genres, tones, and moods. He one day hopes to write a novel—he just hasn't decided on a genre yet. A certified homebody, you'll often find him on the computer he built himself, binge-watching Seinfeld or House, playing his favourite gacha game, or reading a book.
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Tobias is a features writer that specialises in branded content. Reach out to him at tobias.tomas@tatlerasia.com.
