Cover The lights between Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square feature 30,000 LED bulbs in the shape of Islamic geometric patterns and symbols. (Photograph: Tolga Akmen/EPA)
The lights between Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square feature 30,000 LED bulbs in the shape of Islamic geometric patterns and symbols. (Photograph: Tolga Akmen/EPA)
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The essence of Raya is not lost on these home-grown Malaysians living abroad
The reach of a Malaysian style celebration of Eid al-Fitr, or Hari Raya, knows no bounds. Expressed through different foods, cultural practices, and traditional wear, there are many ways Malaysians across the world find pockets of culture and comfort, even if proximity to home might argue otherwise.
There are a few things that are intrinsic in the celebration of Hari Raya in Malaysia, and some of them include favourites such as open houses, or certain meals and dishes only prepared during this celebratory period. Meaning is woven into these rituals that transcend borders, and replicated in every corner of the world.
We reached out to Malaysians living around the world to share their Raya rituals. Some big, some small, but all have the same shared function of self-soothing nostalgia.
In case you missed it: Rooted in Flavour: A deep dive into Malay food
Izzul, Copenhagen
Above Copenhagen entertainment and restaurant scene beside the canal in Nyhavn district with boats along the canal and people enjoying a restaurant lunch in front of the colored townhouses. (Photo by: Martin Berry/UCG/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)
Copenhagen entertainment and restaurant scene beside the canal in Nyhavn district with boats along the canal and people enjoying a restaurant lunch in front of the colored townhouses. (Photo by: Martin Berry/UCG/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)
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Many years in Copenhagen with his family has allowed Izzul to find his own rituals for Hari Raya. When asked about how he celebrates Raya, he states “it’s pretty decent when I celebrate here in Copenhagen. There are quite a few Malaysians living here, so there are open houses, and my mom hosts them as well.”
On the food front, he gets the typical, highly loved fare of a classic Raya spread that includes ketupat, lemang, rendang, and many more, “I still get that Raya vibe,” says Izzul.
“Of course it’s not 100 per cent like Raya in Malaysia, nothing beats that. But it's a fair substitute and definitely helps when I’m missing Malaysia a little extra.”
Sofiah, London
Above The lights between Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square feature 30,000 LED bulbs in the shape of Islamic geometric patterns and symbols. (Photograph: Tolga Akmen/EPA)
The lights between Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square feature 30,000 LED bulbs in the shape of Islamic geometric patterns and symbols. (Photograph: Tolga Akmen/EPA)
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Sofiah moved to the UK whilst she was in school, and has had many years accustomising herself to build on her own repertoire of Raya traditions with her and her siblings in London. Her rituals beginning during the month of Ramadan, she makes a conscious effort to gather as many of her Muslim friends together to break fast together, “to embrace the spirit of togetherness… the long hours can be tough, especially in London, but sharing the experience with friends makes it much easier,” she mentions. Usually a potluck style, when asked what kind of food is usually brought, “it’s often Malaysian favourites, which makes it feel like home.”
Sofiah, an incredible chef and hostess, loves “hosting an open house for friends and family based in London.” A full day of events planned for her guests, she ensures they're always fed well. “We start the day with Eid prayers before coming home for a celebratory feast.”
As with many Malaysians, Sofiah emphasises the importance of food in celebration. To embrace her culture, she prepares a slew of traditional Malaysian dishes, laboured with love. Some of her favourites to prepare include ketupat, rendang, ayam masak merah, and nasi kerabu.
“But ultimately, it’s about gathering with loved ones and recreating that warm, festive atmosphere no matter where we are.”
Arjun, Hamburg
Above Rathaus, the Town Hall, in Hamburg (Image: Moritz Kindler)
Rathaus, the Town Hall, in Hamburg (Image: Moritz Kindler)
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A successful spin instructor in Hamburg, previously in Amsterdam, Arjun has settled comfortably in the eclectic city of Germany. Although he makes the trip home every so often, it’s usually during Christmas and New Years that he spends time back home in Malaysia.
When asked about how he feels about celebrating Raya abroad, he admits to feeling FOMO—“I do get a bit of it seeing all my friends at open houses.” However, he finds the silver lining and finds Raya as a great opportunity to “reconnect with friends and family over FaceTime when everyone’s together under the same roof.”
The hardest part besides FOMO of open houses might just be the food. On the top of his foodie wishlist every Raya—or even everyday—is nasi lemak, and his grandmother’s curry. With a paucity of good Malaysian restaurants in Hamburg, he sometimes finds himself closing his eyes and pretending he’s eating a fragrant plate of nasi lemak, “because what beats a nasi lemak?”
Zara, Singapore
Above The Merlion and Marina Bay Sands, the landmarks of Singapore (Image: Economic Times)
The Merlion and Marina Bay Sands, the landmarks of Singapore (Image: Economic Times)
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Having lived in multiple countries around the world prior, Zara has had her fair share of celebrating Raya abroad. Originally hailing from Malaysia and now settling in Singapore, she feels closer to home and tries to celebrate Raya as much as possible back in Kuala Lumpur.
However, when she’s back in Singapore, the celebrations for her continue; “my friends would invite me over and cook for me. There would be a bunch of food on the table and it typically is a potluck.”
Having friends from all over the world creates a special blend of food and cuisines, and for Zara, she likes to show up with the ultimate crowd pleaser—kuih. “I will usually bring some of the kuih that my mom packs for me from home.”
Keandra's expertise lies within writing deep dives into the culture and anthropology of food, sometimes with a philosophical twist. With a background in London's F&B consultancy scene, she's excited to be back in Kuala Lumpur to champion the local dining scene.
Reach her at keandra.hing@tatlerasia.com, @keandruh
