Enjoying the first white truffles of the season
Cover Enjoying the first white truffles of the season

The vegetarian chef behind the fine-dining French restaurant has been serving vegetarian menus upon special request for years

I think it was 2014 or so when I first heard the news that chef Emmanuel Stroobant had become vegetarian. The decision, as one might imagine, raised a lot of questions and eyebrows. Yes, chef Stroobant was trying to live a healthier lifestyle, and no, he wasn’t turning his award-winning restaurant Saint Pierre into a vegetarian restaurant. The latter was welcome news for Singapore’s greedy gourmets, at the time obsessed with luxury products like uni and wagyu (many, we dare say, still are). 

Plus many older and well-travelled diners remembered the semi-successful, semi-failed (depending on who you talk to) revolution that acclaimed French chef Alain Pasard attempted in his legendary Paris restaurant L’Arpege. In 2001, Passard announced that he was eliminating meat from his menus. Instead, he would plan his meals around the produce being grown at biodynamic farms he was running in Sarthe, Eure, and Manche. The announcement was met with much furore from French gourmands, but by the time Passard reintroduced animal proteins onto his plates in 2010, many of his patrons preferred to order his vegetarian menus. 

Don’t miss: The most delectable vegetarian menus at fine dining restaurants in Singapore

Tatler Asia
Two of the snacks at the start of the meal: Tartelette of white asparagus vichyssoise and Wild mushroom, miso, soy, dill tartelette
Above Two of the snacks at the start of the meal: Tartelette of white asparagus vichyssoise, and wild mushroom, miso, soy, dill tartelette

In the years since Stroobant went vegetarian, he’s earned two Michelin stars for Saint Pierre, plus opened other award-winning restaurants, for example the two-starred sushiya Shoukouwa and most recently Shoukouwa Shinjidai. He has, without a doubt, cemented his place as one of Singapore’s top chefs and restaurateurs. 

In recent years, thanks in part to awareness of climate change, food security and health concerns, an increasing number of consumers have been seeking out plant-forward and vegetarian meals. Whenever friends have asked me to recommend a high-end vegetarian dining experience, I would always recommend Saint Pierre (and Revolver). I had assumed that because of Stroobant’s own personal dietary choices, he would have a fantastic vegetarian menu available. That assumption, it turns out, was wrong. 

Saint Pierre has always catered to vegetarians, but upon special request. However, in recent times, so many patrons have been asking for vegetarian menus, that the restaurant has, for the very first time, officially launched one. In contrast to the Opulence menu, the vegetarian menu has been called Elegance. 

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Photo 1 of 4 Smoked beetroot, Akita ‘mountain’ tonburi, wasabi
Photo 2 of 4 Liguria zucchini flower, ponzu, chilli
Photo 3 of 4 Alba white truffle, celeriac, lily bulb
Photo 4 of 4 Vosges girolle mushrooms, ginger, fennel

My colleague Sean and I visited the restaurant to taste the newly-launched seven-course menu. It started with exquisitely crafted snacks, followed by a first course of smoked beetroot, Akita ‘mountain’ tonburi and wasabi. The tonburi was a beautiful alternative to caviar that still delivered savouriness and a great texture on the palate. A Brittany purple artichoke with black truffle and fig leaf was next, followed by a Liguria zucchini flowers filled with a brunoise of shallot, ginger, zucchini, black truffle and chilli, topped with discs of black winter truffle from Australia, served with tomato-ponzu emulsion. 

Then sautéed Vosges girolles with shallots and chives sit on top of a ragu made from fennel, girolle mushrooms, crème fraîche, lemon zest and tarragon. This was served with a soy-braised eggplant and a mushroom-hojicha consommé. My favourite course was next: brown butter puff pastry filled with a mushroom-shallot duxelle and celeriac noodles with mushroom sauce, topped with celeriac tuiles and shavings of Alba white truffle. It was so nice to get the first white truffles of the season.

Tatler Asia
Tulameen raspberry, gula melaka, pandan
Above Tulameen raspberry, gula melaka, pandan

We then enjoyed a gorgeous, small pre-dessert—an onde-onde-inspired dish that consisted of fresh Tulameen raspberries topped with gula melaka jelly and lychee sorbet, served with coconut-pandan coulis. Then we were offered a choice of a roast pineapple focused dessert or one built around nashi pear and chocolate. 

In all, an excellent and exciting menu showcasing seasonal produce in a truly elevated fashion, combining technique and taste in the best possible way. Saint Pierre’s seven-course Elegance Menu is available for lunch and dinner and is priced at S$398++ per person. Guests can opt for a cheese supplement at S$38++, a non-alcoholic accompaniment at S$148++ and a wine pairing at S$248++. A premium wine pairing is available at S$416++ (dinner only). All pairings consist of 6 beverages curated by the restaurant's sommelier.

Saint Pierre
French   |   $ $ $ $   |  

1 Fullerton Road, #02-02B One Fullerton, S(049213)

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