Cover Carne de res al cafe Paris
Carne de res al cafe Paris
1 / 1
Barcelona-born chef David Amoros merges his love for Catalán slow cooking with his creative streak in this fresh upscale casual concept
Spanish cuisine is something that Filipinos easily embrace because of the country’s long history with Spain. There seems to be a Spanish dish to set the scene for every occasion. For instance— paella is just as largely considered celebration food alongside lechon. Our grandmas or their kusineras usher in the sombre season of lent by stocking up on bacalao, soaked in water to wash off the salt, to be either prepared into a Basque tomato stew (ala Vizcaina) or cooked al pil-pil (confited in olive oil until emulsified into a thick sauce). Native pastries and cakes only came into existence when the Spanish nuns taught the local ladies to make leche flan, tocino del cielo, and other dulces to make use of the discarded egg yolks, since the friars only needed egg whites for the construction of their churches.
Catch it while you can: Off Menu Philippines 2023: Tatler Dining’s food festival is back!
1 / 2
With that kind of history spanning over four centuries, modern-day Spaniards residing in Manila are not surprised to encounter some local Spanish restaurants that have already adjusted their flavours to pander to the Filipino palate. “It is completely understandable,” Barcelona native Andrés Poy confesses, “you see it happen everywhere in the world. You go to other countries and you go into a McDonald’s, and they will offer dishes there that are meant to appeal to the locals. Even here in Manila, I mistook this food wrapped in McDonald’s packaging as a burger, but no, it was rice! Only in the Philippines.” (Laughs)
See also: 9 most beautiful McDonald’s in the world
Above Chef David Amoros
1 / 2
However, they are hoping to do things differently in El Born, the upscale casual restaurant Poy recently opened with business partner Yvonne Yao Lee. Named after the charming district characterised by its narrow medieval streets lined with designer boutiques and trendy bars, the duo is set on offering Catalán-Mediterranean cuisine that when Spaniards from their region taste it, they will immediately be transported back to the motherland. On one of his trips to Barcelona, Poy got to chatting with a chef and old friend, David Amoros. “We were having some drinks and just chatting about my travels,” Poy narrates, “and David told me ‘You know, I would love to go on some adventures, too. I think I am ready.’ So I told him, ‘You know what, I think I might have a nice adventure for you.’ Of course, he had to talk to his wife, and the first chance David got to fly out (this was during the pandemic and borders were just reopening) to Manila, he did.”
Read more: The ultimate primer to The Balmori Chef’s Table at Rockwell
Above Anchoas con mantequilla
Anchoas con mantequilla
1 / 1
Chef Amoros speaks only a smattering of English, which is why Poy has been enlisted to be his official translator. Upon arrival, the Catalán chef went straight to work; he knew that to be able to cook his cuisine in this distant land, he had to start sourcing ingredients. For those he could not import or get locally, he needed to find alternatives. An advocate of the slow food movement in Barcelona, Amoros creates dishes from scratch and refuses to succumb to shortcuts. When asked what is the toughest ingredient to source and substitute, chef Amoros quickly answered: “Fish.” The lovely seafood they get from the Mediterranean would be too expensive to fly in regularly, so the industrious chef scours the wet markets and explores nearby provinces to find local ingredients that would be worthy stand-ins.
See also: Introducing a new chef-driven concept: The Cork Elite Dining Series
Above La bomba de la Barceloneta
Above Pescadito frito del dia
La bomba de la Barceloneta
1 / 2
The menu at El Born is truly a reflection of chef Amoros' cultural background, his passion for slow food, and a platform for him to apply his creativity. The region of Catalonia is bordered by Italy and France, so do not be surprised to find fresh burrata on top of a mesclun salad. On toasted brioche, he showcases a thin wedge of smoked butter adorned with an anchovy as a starter. His croquetas are done properly with béchamel mixed with chicken and truffle, and he layers the flavours by first roasting the chicken in their Josper grill powered by coconut husk charcoal from Davao.
In case you missed it: August 2023 Dining Radar: new restaurants, bars, and pop-ups to try this month
Above Arroz de carne Iberica
Arroz de carne Iberica
1 / 1
A popular draw since they opened in July is their arroz. “Not paella,” chef Amoros clarifies, and not for anything but simply because this is not the Valencian kind and once you try it you will know the difference. Chef Amoros uses Acquerello brand rice, a premium variety of carnaroli which is used for cooking risotto. It is quickly finished in the Josper to further reduce the broth and concentrate the flavours, and the result is truly closer to the Italian rice dish which is rich and unctuous. The arroz negro de pescado is adorned with cuttlefish and squid, and the rice is thickly coated with reduced broth and squid ink. When I complimented the chef on how perfectly seasoned the arroz was, I mentioned that I usually ask for a lemon wedge and aioli to enhance my experience, but this dish needed neither. Chef Amoros smiled and spoke in Spanish, and then Poy translated, “the flavour and aroma of lemon are so overpowering, so when a guest asks for lemon to add to the dish then I know there is something I need to fix.”
Read more: Spice cabinet essentials according to chefs: Rhea Rizzo, Robby Goco, and more on their favourites
1 / 2
A lot of the dishes come from Catalán heirloom recipes, some from the family of Ivone Romera, chef Amoros’ wife who has since joined him in Manila. And still, there are those that are playful and clever straight out of chef Amoros’s mind, like a beautiful shrimp carpaccio that they have yet to add to the menu. It is flavoured simply with the juice extracted from shrimp heads which every seafood lover knows is loaded with intense flavour. Sourced locally, the raw shrimp is cut thinly and the texture is soft and sticky, reminiscent of long-cooked tendon. For dessert, he prepared a cheesecake which is all the rage these days. Aside from the delicately creamy texture, he throws in some nostalgia with a buttery Lotus biscuit crust. It ends the meal not with a bang, but with a warm embrace which I feel is far more memorable.
Chef Amoros plans to keep his menu brief and concise, with a few specials depending on the available produce. He admits, “Our cuisine is 70 per cent ingredients, and 30 per cent,” he points at his chest, “heart.” Despite his humility, we should never mistake his low-key demeanour for lack of character. His food speaks for him, and it displays a deep understanding of his culture and a confident manipulation of ingredients. I told him that the 30 per cent is just as important, and joked, “That is why you can never leave.” Thankfully, he laughs while shaking his head and says reassuringly: “I won’t.”
NOW READ
Acclaimed chef Josh Niland partners with The Singapore Edition to helm its soon-to-open restaurant
Sakagura sake bar and izakaya, a new concept by the Nikkei Group, is now open in BGC
Exclusive sneak preview: chef Miko Calo’s new restaurant, Taqueria Franco
Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
