Cover Edward Lee’s story is a journey of perseverance, creativity and cultural connection.
Edward Lee’s story is a journey of perseverance, creativity and cultural connection.
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Edward Lee’s story is a journey of perseverance, creativity and cultural connection.
From his early days growing up in Brooklyn to the formative years spent honing his craft in Louisville, and later, to the spotlight of Culinary Class Wars, Edward Lee’s journey has followed a path of unexpected turns. Along the way, he has become a chef who views the world through the boundless lens of food as both art and storytelling. Join Tatler Vietnam as we uncover the remarkable journey and layered culinary philosophies of this singular talent.
Edward Lee’s career defies singular definition. Champion of Iron Chef America, special guest at a White House State Dinner, and a star of Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars, he has forged a vibrant path that fuses culinary artistry with cultural storytelling. As chef-owner of 610 Magnolia and Nami Modern Korean Steakhouse in Louisville, Kentucky, and most recently Shia—a non-profit fine dining concept in Washington DC—Lee continues to reimagine traditional cuisine, transforming each plate into a narrative of origin and intent.
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Not only is Lee a gifted chef, he is also a James Beard Award-winning writer, with titles such as Smoke & Pickles, Buttermilk Graffiti, and Bourbon Land to his name. These works trace the intersections between food, identity and heritage, offering insights into who he is both in the kitchen and as a storyteller of flavour.
Born and raised in Brooklyn to Korean immigrants, Lee’s childhood was defined by the confluence of two worlds—modern America and a homeland he had never seen. “My parents left Korea in 1971, and I was born a year later,” he shares. “As an immigrant family, we lost a lot: our language, our rituals, our history. But the one thing we kept was our food.”
Family meals were a living thread to his heritage. His mother and grandmother, both residing with the family, played a central role in preserving culinary traditions. “I never grew up in Korea. I first visited when I was 16, but thanks to our meals, I had a very ‘Korean’ childhood,” he reflects. “It gave me a deep appreciation for Asian flavours, something I will always be grateful for.”
Above Lee began his professional journey in New York, opening his first restaurant in 1998. But the aftermath of 9/11 left him with nothing
Lee began his professional journey in New York, opening his first restaurant in 1998. But the aftermath of 9/11 left him with nothing
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Lee’s passion for food began early. “I don’t remember a time when I didn’t want to cook,” he says. “Other kids collected baseball cards or comics, while I would search laundromats with my mum for abandoned food magazines and pore over every page.”
Navigating life between two cultures, Lee learned to embrace the tension. “It wasn’t an easy path, but I wouldn’t be the chef I am today without it,” he says. “I use Korean flavours, but I don’t cook traditional Korean food. My cooking is personal, unorthodox, and tells my story in a way words cannot.”
Lee began his professional journey in New York, opening his first restaurant in 1998. But the aftermath of 9/11 left him with nothing. “It was devastating,” he recalls. “Before diving back into another restaurant, I knew I needed to see more of America.”
That search led him to the Kentucky Derby—and a turning point. “I fell in love with the culture the moment I arrived,” he says. What began as a short visit turned into a commitment spanning more than twenty years. “Louisville has given me so much. I met my wife here. I rediscovered my passion. Most of all, I thrived without the intensity of a big city. This is where I found my voice, and where I came to understand that hospitality is not a transaction—it’s a relationship.”
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Above Edward Lee’s journey is not merely the story of a renowned chef; it is a reminder that food is more than pleasure
Edward Lee’s journey is not merely the story of a renowned chef; it is a reminder that food is more than pleasure
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Louisville became a testing ground for Edward Lee’s ever-evolving culinary style. At Nami Korean Steakhouse, he returned to traditional Korean recipes for the first time.
“I’ve always cooked fusion food throughout my career, blending cultures,” he says. “But this was the first time I truly embraced authentic Korean recipes. I didn’t expect to love it so much.”
This deeper connection to his heritage laid the foundation for his later endeavours—from experimental restaurants to deeply personal books. Edward Lee’s journey is not merely the story of a renowned chef; it is a reminder that food is more than pleasure. It is also a way to tell stories, preserve memories, and bring people together.
When his daughter Arden was born, Lee began to reflect on the values he wished to pass down.
“It made me question what it really means to be Korean in America,” he says. These thoughts prompted a return to Korea, where he explored ancestral recipes and centuries-old techniques.
Such introspection inspired the launch of Shia, a restaurant that forms part of The Lee Initiative—a nonprofit organisation Lee co-founded to champion equity and sustainability within the culinary world. Shia redefines fine dining through a sustainable lens: no single-use plastics, electric over gas stoves, and a concerted effort to halve waste.
“Luxury and responsibility don’t need to be opposites,” Lee states. “We can craft refined dining experiences while giving back to the community.”
Shia also embodies Lee’s deepening relationship with his Korean identity. “It’s Korean, but not really Korean,” he says. “I’m reinterpreting ancient flavours in a more modern language.”
Above Lee’s impact stretches far beyond the television screen
Lee’s impact stretches far beyond the television screen
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Lee’s impact stretches far beyond the television screen. Culinary Class Wars, which aired in Korea in 2024, gave him the platform to present his distinctive cooking style on an international stage.
“I was the only foreigner on the show,” he recalls. “At first, it felt isolating, but I came to see that as an advantage. It allowed me to focus on my story and my food.”
Despite not speaking fluent Korean, Lee reached the finals and finished as runner-up. His heartfelt cooking and creative spirit captured audiences, earning him a devoted fan base.
One of the show’s standout challenges involved tofu. Contestants were tasked with creating original dishes using tofu within 30 minutes, with each round narrowing the field. With a humble ingredient and little time, Lee’s calm and inventive approach stood out.
“If you overthink, you’ll trip yourself up,” he explains. “I trusted my instincts and experience and I truly enjoyed it. If there had been three more rounds, I would’ve had three more recipes. I was completely in the moment.”
As the competition progressed, Lee’s mindset shifted.
“Initially, it was just a contest,” he says. “But the further I got, the more I wanted to make it count. That’s when I began to cook with my whole heart—telling my story through food.”
Whether he’s writing, cooking, or competing, Lee brings the soul of an artist to his work.
“I believe great art, be it a painting or a plate, makes you see the world differently. Every morning, I wake up and view life through the lens of food,” he says. “Everything has its own flavour. But I’m not a wild artist like Jackson Pollock. For me, art is about balance and harmony.”
“Nature forms perfect, one-of-a-kind designs. That inspires me to mirror that beauty in cuisine. I strive to craft dishes that feel honest rather than artificial. That’s what keeps my creative fire alive.”
When asked about her inspiration, Lee shared: “I love walking in nature, and especially watching my daughter connect with animals, whether it’s at the farm, the aquarium, or during her horse-riding lessons. The patterns on a horse’s back, the way nature forms perfect shapes that never overlap, all of it inspires me to reflect that beauty in my food, creating dishes that feel authentic rather than forced or artificial.”
Lee’s career has been a journey of continual evolution. “I can’t sit still,” he confesses. “I enjoy writing because it forces me to reflect. I thrive in the energy of a busy kitchen. And I relish the tension and thrill of being on television. Each element contributes to the whole picture of who I am. This is my natural rhythm, and I love it.”
To aspiring chefs, Lee offers a single piece of advice: be patient. “Everyone’s chasing quick success, but it’s a long path. You have to learn to embrace the process and give yourself time to get it right,” he says. “If you reach your peak in your twenties, then what? Culinary work is about longevity.”
Looking ahead, Lee intends to keep pushing boundaries, offering fresh perspectives, and, through innovation, arriving at something truly meaningful. “We know what Korean cuisine has looked like for the past 2,000 years. But what will it become in the next 20?”
He pauses, then smiles. “That’s the question I want to help answer.”
Credits
Photography: Matt Albiani
Styling: Seppe Tirabassi
Translation: Hong Dang
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