Cover Saigon’s enduring culinary landmarks help safeguard the refined flavours of Vietnamese tradition (photo: Justin Mott)
Saigon’s enduring culinary landmarks help safeguard the refined flavours of Vietnamese tradition (photo: Justin Mott)
1 / 1
In Saigon, amid gleaming towers and sleek modern façades, there remain timeworn eateries and humble street stalls, their aromas stirring memories of childhood for generations.
With its depth and diversity, Vietnamese cuisine has firmly claimed a place on the world’s gastronomic map. It reflects the cultural richness of the nation and the nuances of its many regions. Its continuity across time has also served to transmit flavours of the past into modernity, to satisfy the hungry diners of our generation.
Across cities and provinces, from vibrant metropolises to quieter towns, there still exist eateries—some mere carts, others well-worn dining rooms—that have stood for more than five decades.
These enduring culinary landmarks have helped safeguard the refined flavours of Vietnamese tradition. Evoking a sense of nostalgia and offering an authentic taste of the past, they continue to hold a special place in the hearts of locals and curious travellers alike.
You might be interested in: Legacy 50 – When a Vietnamese fine dining restaurant reimagines dishes from the subsidy period
In an age marked by change and uncertainty, the enduring presence of these establishments offers comfort and a quiet sense of continuity. Join Tatler Vietnam as we pay homage to a selection of Saigon’s culinary icons—each more than half a century old—that have weathered history’s twists and turns while keeping traditional Vietnamese flavours alive.
Hoa Ma Bread
Founded in 1958, Hoa Ma bread is among Saigon’s oldest and most beloved bakeries. Taking its name from a street in Hanoi, the establishment has served generations of diners. Although time has brought inevitable changes, the taste has remained remarkably consistent—a key to its enduring charm.
To international guests, Hoa Ma offers a flavourful, layered experience, thanks to a balanced medley of ingredients. For Vietnamese diners, it serves as a reminder of quieter days gone by, and of the honest, nostalgic flavours of traditional cuisine. Decades on, despite glowing write-ups and global recognition, Hoa Ma bread stays true to its roots, marked by a simplicity and sincerity that echo the spirit of old Saigon.
Pho Hoa Pasteur
Tucked along bustling Pasteur Street, Pho Hoa Pasteur is one of Saigon’s most iconic pho destinations, its reputation extending well beyond local borders. Celebrated in both domestic and international publications, this eatery has helped elevate Vietnam’s national dish to global acclaim.
What began as a modest street cart has become a cherished symbol of Vietnamese culinary heritage. Staying faithful to Southern-style recipes and using native beef, Pho Hoa Pasteur delivers a broth that is richly sweet, slightly fatty and deeply comforting.
For visitors to Saigon, it’s a recommended stop—frequently cited by travel writers and foodie guides alike. Notable guests have included members of the K-pop group Super Junior—Siwon, Eunhyuk and Shindong—who dined there during their Vietnam tour in early 2023.
Cheo Leo Racket Coffee Shop
As Vietnam continues to embrace global culinary trends, an increasing number of sophisticated coffee shops are emerging to cater to a clientele seeking artisanal blends in polished, modern settings. Yet, amid this wave of transformation, several long-established cafes have quietly retained a loyal following.
Cheo Leo is one such gem. Tucked away in alley 109 on Nguyen Thien Thuat Street (District 3), this filter coffee shop is believed to be the oldest in Saigon, with more than 80 years of uninterrupted operation. Passed down through generations, it has remained a family affair. In contrast to the city’s fast-paced, ever-modernising landscape, Cheo Leo’s charm lies in its vintage aesthetic—its weathered interior and nostalgic atmosphere continuing to captivate patrons across all age groups, without relying on flashy marketing.
Visitors to Cheo Leo are served robust, slightly bitter coffee, brewed using a method distinct from more common filter or machine styles. Ground coffee is placed into a cloth strainer with a handle, then steeped in a kettle of water brought to the boil over a charcoal stove—releasing every note of flavour in the process.
With its traditional brewing technique and unembellished setting, Cheo Leo is more than just a coffee shop. It’s a gathering place for generations—a quiet corner where people come not just for caffeine, but for a taste of old Saigon.
Ms. Chanh's noodles
Hidden within the Old Market on Ton That Dam Street (District 1), Hu Tieu Co Chanh stands as one of Saigon’s most time-honoured noodle stalls. Its legacy, shaped by years of service and a steadfast sense of tradition, has made it a cherished destination for both locals and overseas visitors.
What sets Ms Chanh’s noodles apart is more than their sweet, full-bodied flavour. Every aspect of the dish from the selection of ingredients to its final presentation is handled with an uncommon care. Unlike the bustling, no-frills approach often associated with noodle shops, this one takes a more thoughtful path. Plates are artfully arranged, ingredients meticulously cleaned and prepared—a clear reflection of the proprietor’s dedication.
Learn more: Legacy 50 – Saigon: City of “firsts”
Equally compelling is the space itself, where time seems to have paused. Vintage objects, some no longer in use but still carefully preserved, speak of a bygone era. For diners, the experience extends beyond the food. Amidst the noise of the city, Ms Chanh’s stall offers a gentle retreat—a living tribute to the quiet elegance of Saigon’s past.
Hien Khanh Tea Shop
Nestled among the terrace houses lining Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street (District 3), Hien Khanh sweet soup shop has quietly served Saigon for more than six decades. For many, it’s a place infused with the comforting sweetness of childhood.
Like other time-honoured establishments, Hien Khanh remains a family-run operation, passed from father to son. Though the city around it has changed, the shop endures—its menu gradually evolving to appeal to a younger generation, while keeping its heart rooted in tradition.
The appeal lies in the delicate, refreshing flavours of its desserts. Unlike many Southern sweet soup shops, Hien Khanh uses jasmine-scented sugar syrup rather than coconut milk or rock sugar, lending each bowl a light and fragrant character. Over the years, it has become a favoured spot for those seeking both a cooling treat and a journey into the past.
The experience extends beyond flavour. Hien Khanh’s nostalgic atmosphere is enhanced by the décor—images of parents and grandparents, and poems handwritten in graceful, almost calligraphic script, displayed alongside each tea dish. Many visitors, both local and international, have been charmed by these lyrical flourishes—a quiet, elegant gesture that lingers long after the last spoonful.
Topics
