We dive into the history of two Lunar New Year puddings, the savoury turnip cake and the sweet sticky rice cake nian gao, and the special meaning they uphold
Food is the centrepiece of every family’s home during Chinese New Year. With an endless stream of steamed fish, poon choi, golden spring rolls and jiaozi rolling through the kitchen door, families gather around the dinner table to celebrate this cherished time together.
Homophones are deeply rooted in Chinese culture, and most dishes have a special significance that is tied to good luck, good fortune and good health, including the treasured Lunar New Year cakes—the turnip cake and nian gao, a sweet sticky rice cake. For chef Li Chi-Wai of Rosewood Hong Kong’s The Legacy House, these Lunar New Year specials are about tradition, a time to celebrate with family and a symbolic meaning to wish everyone increasing prosperity every year.
Read more: 4 chefs from across Asia share treasured Chinese New Year recipes
Turnip cake
Turnip cake (lo bak go) can be found all year round at dim sum restaurants, but it most definitely will be present at the dinner table during Chinese New Year. The turnip cake is quite an enigma itself, as there are many theories floating around as to where it actually comes from. Adding to the mystery is the fact that it isn’t actually made from turnip, but rather from white radish, more precisely daikon radish. Radish in Cantonese, choi tau—which is derived from the Taiwanese cai tou—means good fortune, and is typically served in the winter. Thus, a Chinese New Year banquet wouldn’t be complete without this traditional savoury cake.
Recipes vary but turnip can be made with a combination of dried shrimp, earthy mushrooms, and Chinese fermented sausage though some prefer to use fatty pork or dried scallops. It can be steamed and pan-fried and gives off an incredible umami flavour.
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