Vietnamese chefs turn kitchen pressure into culinary creativity

Hello Chef Si Toan and Duc Hieu. Thank you for taking the time to chat with Tatler Vietnam. Throughout your culinary journey, what has been the greatest challenge that helped shape who you are today?

Chef Si Toan: The early days of opening Sam Dining in Da Lat were extremely challenging. At that time, concepts such as “fine dining” or “set menus” were new, even unfamiliar, to many diners. The pressure came not only from running a young restaurant but also from convincing the market to embrace a completely new model.

There were moments when my team and I struggled to survive in a tough niche market. Questions like “Is the path I chose too unconventional?” kept running through my mind. Yet it was the sleepless nights, the failed experiments, and then sudden sparks of new ideas that motivated me to persist. Staying true to the value Sam Dining offered, along with a belief in the talent of my chef team, helped me navigate these challenging times.

Chef Duc Hieu: The most challenging period of my career was the two years I spent in the fine dining kitchen of the JW Marriott Phu Quoc Hotel. That kitchen had only four people: the head chef, the assistant chef, myself, and a colleague in charge of the cold kitchen.

With such a heavy workload and a small team, I found myself in a continuous cycle from 8am to midnight. Each morning, the question “Should I quit my job or not?” lingered in my mind. Yet, in the end, I chose to stay. Looking back, I realise that this intense period instilled many valuable qualities in me as a chef: discipline, focus, and above all, a deep love for the craft.

Many people liken the kitchen to a stressful “battlefield”. What motivates you to “fight” here every day, year after year?

Chef Si Toan: The fine dining kitchen is indeed a challenging “battlefield”, where every detail must be flawless and the pressure of time and diners’ expectations is constant. Yet I willingly step onto this “battlefield” each day, because it is also a “stage” where I can shine.

My boundless passion for creativity is another key reason I stay in the heat of the kitchen. I love transforming ordinary ingredients into art on the plate and enjoy watching young chefs push their own boundaries. Beyond that, seeing the surprise and delight in diners’ eyes gives me immense satisfaction. In those moments, I know that I am not merely cooking; I am telling a story and creating a memorable experience.

Chef Duc Hieu: Initially, my family opposed my decision to pursue a career in cooking. Coming from a family with a kitchen tradition, they knew the hardships and pressures Vietnamese chefs face better than anyone. But my love for cooking was stronger, and I was determined to follow my passion and prove that my choice was the right one.

I believe in the path I have chosen, which is why I continue to “fight” against the pressure every day. Each successful dish feels like a victory, motivating me to take on new challenges. It is this drive, coupled with a desire for my family’s recognition, that keeps me in the demanding kitchen.

Have you ever thought about leaving the kitchen? What drew you back?

Chef Si Toan: Yes. Every journey has moments of exhaustion, and mine is no different. I have felt disheartened after creative failures or negative feedback. At times, the pressure seemed overwhelming, and I considered stepping away for a less taxing path.

Yet my love for the kitchen always draws me back. It is the aroma of food, the rhythmic sound of knives on cutting boards, and the quiet moments alone preparing ingredients for a special occasion. Above all, cuisine still presents goals to conquer, much like Saigon itself (laughs).

Have you ever faced a serious incident in the kitchen, such as a faulty dish or a customer complaint? How did you handle it while staying calm and professional?

Chef Duc Hieu: Even the best chefs make mistakes or encounter crises. For me, the customer always comes first. When an incident occurs, rather than justifying or explaining fault, I focus on resolving it as quickly as possible. My aim is to ensure that diners do not suffer any loss of trust, time, or money. In this profession, we cannot ask customers to understand our difficulties; our responsibility is to deliver the best possible experience.

Looking back on your cooking journey, what is the most memorable performance, Chef Si Toan?

Chef Si Toan: For me, a truly “lifetime” performance is not defined by receiving a flattering compliment or a prestigious award, but by becoming a source of inspiration for the next generation. When others mention and follow your work, you not only satisfy diners but also create a positive wave that helps the entire F&B industry grow.

Read more: “U” – When fermentation tells stories in the Vietnamese kitchen

Do you ever feel that pursuing your passion requires too many sacrifices?

Chef Duc Hieu: Definitely (laughs). Balancing work and personal life is always challenging. To succeed, sacrifices are inevitable. I personally chose to trade time with my family and even my health to focus entirely on my career. For five years, I have been working away from home, rarely seeing relatives. But this is the path I chose, and I have no regrets.

The biggest challenge for chefs today is no longer technical. What do you think they need to overcome to make a difference?

Chef Duc Hieu: I completely agree that cooking techniques are no longer the only “key” to success. They are readily available online. I remember that early in my career, the previous generation of chefs often “kept their skills secret,” because technique was their most valuable asset. Today, the situation has changed.

Many young chefs now have a deep understanding of agriculture and seafood. This knowledge has helped them succeed and advance. Therefore, the biggest challenge chefs face today is to understand the roots of cuisine—ingredients, food, and the fundamental elements that make a dish exceptional. Those who are stronger in ingredients than in technique will be most “in tune” with the current culinary context (laughs).

Culinary creativity is under pressure from the market, social media, and more. How do you maintain your culinary style and personality without losing yourself in trends?

Chef Si Toan: Pressure from social media and the market demands constant innovation. To maintain my style, I focus on core values. I believe the balance between respecting natural ingredients and refining techniques is decisive. As Chef Marco Pierre White once said: “Mother Nature is the real artist; we are the processors.” I do not follow trends blindly, but adapt them to my own style. Only with a solid foundation in techniques and ingredients can a chef create freely without losing identity.

Above all, with strong technical skills and an understanding of ingredients, I can create confidently. Creation is not about copying, but transforming the ordinary into the unique. That is why I prefer to define my cuisine as “modern cuisine,” rather than using labels like “Vietfusion” or “European food.”

Many chefs grow from challenges. Was there a moment in your career—a mistake or unexpected incident—that became a “turning point” and helped you discover a unique cooking style?

Chef Si Toan: Once, I asked my chefs to work with red tilapia, a very Vietnamese ingredient, often considered “common”. At the time, they were under a lot of pressure. We decided to elevate it by altering its texture and flavour. I experimented with pairing red tilapia with premium caviar and coriander foam—a modern technique that ensures the flavour remains delicate. We also used a low-temperature cooking method, which requires precise control to preserve the fish’s natural sweetness and moisture.

The dish received widespread praise. Diners were amazed that such a familiar ingredient could be elevated to a sophisticated level. That moment reinforced my belief that the true value of cuisine comes not from expensive ingredients but from the passion, technique, and creativity of the chef.

In your opinion, what is the most important quality that helps a chef “shine” under pressure?

Chef Duc Hieu: Beyond solid skills, a strong mentality, and leadership, what truly enables a professional chef to survive and thrive is consistency. Consistency not only maintains form but also shapes style, allows a chef to shine, and helps pursue passion to the very end.

As a senior, do you have advice or stories to share with the next generation of chefs?

Chef Si Toan: My advice can be summed up in three points (laughs). First, passion is the fire, but knowledge, technique, and creativity are the fuel. Never stop learning or experimenting.

Second, don’t lose yourself to the crowd. Find your own path and stick to your values. Whether in a cosy bistro or a fine dining restaurant, the most important thing is to cook joyfully and earn diners’ appreciation. Finally, always respect ingredients, diners, and yourself. Take care of your physical and mental health, because you cannot create great dishes if you are not healthy and happy.

Chef Duc Hieu: I hope these insights offer valuable perspectives to young people dreaming of a career as a chef. I always emphasise to colleagues: “Attitude is more important than qualifications, and discipline shapes a person.” Skills can be learned, but without a good attitude and discipline, even the most talented and creative chef will struggle to succeed.

Finally, if one day you leave the kitchen, how would you like your legacy to be remembered?

Chef Si Toan: I hope my legacy is more than just delicious dishes. I want to be remembered as someone who boldly forged his own path, contributing to the growth of the Vietnamese F&B industry and bringing it to an international stage. I also hope to be remembered as a storyteller through cuisine, creating opportunities for young chefs to develop, turning each dish into a story, an unforgettable memory for diners.

Chef Duc Hieu: I set very high standards for my work, so I do not mind being remembered as a demanding chef. I believe that meticulousness and strictness are essential to creating perfect dishes.

The authentic and profound culinary journeys of Vietnamese chefs Si Toan and Duc Hieu offer fresh perspectives on the pressures of the F&B industry. It was in the most challenging moments that their talent and passion were nurtured, ignited, and allowed to shine, producing dishes brimming with creativity and heart.

NOW READ

When Vietnamese street food finds its voice in the world of fine dining

Discover the stories and emotions behind Vietnam’s most inspiring healing food

Seasonal cuisines: discover new menus through the creative hands of chefs