Cover Balancing tradition with creativity, fine dining brings Vietnamese street food to the table as both cuisine and cultural story.
Balancing tradition with creativity, fine dining brings Vietnamese street food to the table as both cuisine and cultural story.
1 / 1
From pho to banh beo, chefs are reimagining Vietnam’s most beloved dishes for fine dining without losing their soul.
One sweltering June evening, I found myself in front of a plate of “pho” at a fine dining restaurant. On the pristine white porcelain rested a ribbon of thin noodles, a slice of rare beef, a drop of demi-glace scented with cinnamon and star anise, and a few sprigs of coriander scattered sparingly. It resembled a painting more than the familiar bowl of pho we know. In that instant, a question lingered: Are pho, vermicelli, banh beo and other rustic Vietnamese dishes ready to continue their story in the fine dining realm? This question stretches beyond cuisine alone; it touches culture, aesthetics and national pride. When street food takes its place at a luxurious table, what is preserved, and what is inevitably lost?
Fine dining – the realm of creativity and standards
Fine dining is not merely about lofty prices or opulent interiors; it is an artful experience of eating. The concept emerged in France during the modern culinary era, the precursor to contemporary cuisine, when the first high-class restaurants drew aristocratic patrons. There, each meal became a “performance”, diners the audience, chefs the directors. Every dish was carefully prepared, beautifully presented, and served within an elegant space where even lighting and music were deliberately considered.
These rigorous standards have shaped the identity of fine dining for centuries. Yet as the world evolves, so does fine dining, becoming more accessible and inventive. It begins to embrace other cultures, blending traditions with new ideas. As chef René Redzepi (Noma, Denmark) once said: “Fine dining is how we tell the story of ordinary things, in a new language.” It is this balance between heritage and innovation that transforms fine dining into a journey of discovery, where each dish is not just tasted but experienced, heard and felt.
Street food on the fine dining table
For years, dishes like pho, banh beo and bun have appeared in high-end restaurants, though often limited to upgraded ingredients and presentation, without conveying deeper cultural stories or creativity beyond tradition. By the late 20th century, however, these dishes began appearing on the menus of elite Vietnamese restaurants abroad, gradually gaining recognition as expressions of Vietnam’s cultural identity.
In Saigon, Anan Saigon, under chef Peter Cuong Franklin, serves “caviar” pho, a broth condensed into jelly, placed on a sparkling spoon with caviar, ribboned noodles and thinly sliced beef rolled like a flower. Meanwhile, Lamai restaurant in Hanoi, helmed by chef Trung Tran, offers a refined take on sour pho, and Gia restaurant invites diners to savour Thanh Tri rice rolls reimagined for fine dining. Also in Saigon, Quang noodles with grilled scallops and scallion oil—a rustic dish from Central Vietnam—appear on the menu at Upstairs Tasting Room, created by chef Hiep Truong.
On the international stage, chef David Thompson (Nahm, Bangkok) draws inspiration from Vietnamese spring rolls. At his fine dining table, he retains the characteristic sweet-and-sour notes of the dipping sauces while applying a silky texture to his interpretations. In Paris, Alain Ducasse has lauded Hue’s banh beo as “the perfect amuse-bouche.”
Vietnam is moving rapidly towards bringing street food into the fine dining space. Evidence lies in the young chefs of Hanoi, Saigon and Da Nang, who are transforming familiar dishes into multi-sensory experiences. Pho becomes more than a meal and tells a story. Bun evolves into an artistic “concept”. Banh beo serves as a delicate punctuation mark on the menu. Clearly, Vietnamese cuisine is boldly exploring the territory of creativity, where the aim is not only to satisfy, but to provoke curiosity and wonder.
Above Vietnam is moving rapidly towards bringing street food into the fine dining space (photo: Rhythms Restaurant)
Above It is not surprising that, in the future, we may see street foods such as rib porridge, pomelo sweet soup, or boiled snails appearing on the menus of high-end restaurants (photo: What To Cook Today)
Vietnam is moving rapidly towards bringing street food into the fine dining space (photo: Rhythms Restaurant)
1 / 2
It is not surprising that, in the future, we may see street foods such as rib porridge, pomelo sweet soup, or boiled snails appearing on the menus of high-end restaurants. Yet this journey is far from straightforward and requires careful preparation to truly impress the most discerning diners.
What is the play for creativity?
One of the greatest challenges of bringing street food into fine dining is retaining its identity. For many, pho is a steaming bowl, fragrant with cinnamon, star anise and beef fat. When it is “deconstructed” into a cold, smokeless, almost flavourless dish, no matter how visually striking, it struggles to evoke emotion. I once sampled such an upgraded pho. Despite its polished presentation, the taste was bland, lacking warmth and familiarity.
Vermicelli faces a similar dilemma. A plate with grilled pork may feature just a few winding noodles, tiny meatballs the size of coins, and a condensed dipping sauce. While aesthetically pleasing, it feels unfamiliar. Banh beo is no exception. Transformed into savoury “mousse” cakes, served on silver spoons, they lose the sensation of fine flour melting in the mouth and the comforting warmth of a small ceramic bowl.
Above One of the greatest challenges of bringing street food into fine dining is retaining its identity (photo: Anan Saigon)
One of the greatest challenges of bringing street food into fine dining is retaining its identity (photo: Anan Saigon)
1 / 1
It seems pho, bun and banh beo are increasingly treated as “materials” to showcase culinary technique. Gradually, they lose their essence and feel distant to those who grew up loving them. The question arises: in the pursuit of creativity, are chefs and diners overlooking the soul of these dishes? Are traditional dishes presented on gleaming fine dining plates a confident step forward or a precarious one?
Read more: Discover the stories and emotions behind Vietnam’s most inspiring healing food
The fine line between innovation and preserving identity is a formidable challenge for modern chefs. They crave new ways to surprise diners, yet face the pressure of keeping the spirit of traditional dishes intact, ensuring they do not become strange or lose cultural significance.
The fine line between innovation and preserving identity is a formidable challenge for modern chefs (photo: CNN)
1 / 2
Faced with this challenge, chefs have found their own solutions. Chef Sam Tran (Gia Hanoi) explains: “I never change the core flavour. I just make it clearer, more delicate, but the flavour must resonate with Vietnamese people.” Similarly, Peter Franklin (Anan Saigon) preserves the robust taste of fish sauce in rice paper rolls. Though the form is simplified into a small bite, it still evokes the identity of home.
Refining a dish for a luxurious setting should never come at the expense of its soul—its taste, texture, and, most importantly, the emotions it conveys. The difficulty lies in maintaining this spirit while innovating in form and technique, creating a unique experience without alienating diners from their culinary memories. The success of Vietnamese fine dining rests on balancing reverence for tradition with subtle, thoughtful change.
The “game” of recklessness
These dishes are more than food; they are cultural essence, carrying memories of generations. Each tells a story of Vietnam, its people and regional identity. When introduced into fine dining, they must satisfy the palate while conveying profound cultural significance.
Pho, vermicelli, and banh beo may appear simple, but they possess a sophistication only a skilled cook can master. Pho demands bones simmered overnight for a clear, flavourful broth. Vermicelli requires expert rinsing and drying techniques. Banh beo must be poured evenly, free from holes. These traditional methods are no less complex than any haute cuisine. Moreover, these dishes are versatile, capable of being scaled down, restructured, or elevated—so long as the chef truly understands and respects their core values.
Above Creativity cannot succeed if the chef does not truly understand the original dish (photo: Gia Restaurant)
Creativity cannot succeed if the chef does not truly understand the original dish (photo: Gia Restaurant)
1 / 1
Creativity cannot succeed if the chef does not truly understand the original dish. Many restaurants make the mistake of copying the form while forgetting the soul. Before a chef can “deconstruct” a dish, they must learn and absorb its history, culture and traditional techniques. The elements that carry the deep essence of flavour are the threads that link the dish to its origin.
It is not only the chef who must understand. Diners also need guidance. Eating pho at a fine dining table is not simply about “checking in”; it is about experiencing sophistication, about listening to the story each flavour tells. The restaurant’s role is to convey that story, to spark appreciation and curiosity in the diner. Above all, balance is essential. Creativity does not equate to destruction, and innovation does not mean erasing the past. Harmony between old and new, between beauty and taste, delicacy and familiarity, is the true destination.
Slow but steady
Returning to the original question: is it time for pho, bun, banh beo… to enter the realm of fine dining? The answer may be yes. Not to show off or become a mere game of the senses, but to allow these dishes to be appreciated, told in a new language without losing their essence. Fine dining can be a creative playground, yet it should remain a space where pho is still steaming, bun still fragrant, and banh beo still smooth—albeit under a different light, in a new form, and with a story to be proud of.
We are observing and innovating together in an exceptionally challenging F&B world, but progress should not come at the cost of a dish’s core values. These humble recipes have nourished generations; now it is time for them to shine in luxurious spaces, carrying the beauty and cultural depth they deserve.
Above The Soul of Nem (photo: Belle Maison Parosand Danang Hotel)
Above Cuon n Roll (photo: Lancengx Studio)
The Soul of Nem (photo: Belle Maison Parosand Danang Hotel)
1 / 2
Fine dining is not about price or appearance. It is about how we appreciate every story, every flavour. And these street foods have, and will continue to, tell some of our best stories.
NOW READ
“U” – When fermentation tells stories in the Vietnamese kitchen
The 1-3-5 rule that every restaurant needs to know by heart to retain customers’ “emotions”
Sakal Phoeung on breathing French soul into Vietnamese cuisine with a borderless heart
