Cover The teppanyaki menu at Koki is elevated by the exquisite Yaeyama Kyori beef (photo: courtesy of Hibana by Koki restaurant)
The teppanyaki menu at Koki is elevated by the exquisite Yaeyama Kyori beef (photo: courtesy of Hibana by Koki restaurant)
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Japanese cuisine has long been celebrated for its meticulous artistry, and the “Crispy Grilled Yaeyama Kyori Beef” at Koki Restaurant is a refined expression of that ethos.
In a gesture of deep respect for his ingredients, Chef Yamaguchi Hiroshi at Koki has selected the rare Yaeyama Kyori beef from the remote southern islands of Japan to craft a dish that is as memorable as it is masterful. Grilled before the eyes of the diner, each piece is seared to achieve an irresistibly crisp surface while keeping the centre delicately succulent.
To savour this dish is not only to indulge in its extraordinary flavour, but also to be transported to the distant archipelago where Chef Yamaguchi first conceived it. Tatler Vietnam invites you to discover the captivating story behind the dish—and to glean the chef’s own notes on how best to enjoy it.
What is the decisive ingredient that makes this dish at Koki? How is it processed to create the perfect dish?
At the heart of this creation lies Yaeyama Kyori beef—rarer even than the famed Kobe variety. To honour such an ingredient, I’ve chosen a rather unconventional technique: the beef is first cooked gently at a low temperature, then seared at high heat to achieve its distinctive crispness. It’s the inverse of the traditional steak method, but one that captures the essence and tenderness of the meat to exquisite effect.
Above Yaeyama Kyori beef is even scarcer than Kobe beef, raised in strictly limited numbers and given exceptional care to achieve its fine marbling and remarkable softness (photo: courtesy of Hibana by Koki restaurant)
Yaeyama Kyori beef is even scarcer than Kobe beef, raised in strictly limited numbers and given exceptional care to achieve its fine marbling and remarkable softness (photo: courtesy of Hibana by Koki restaurant)
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Can you describe the texture of this dish? In what order should one enjoy it?
The crispy grilled Yaeyama Kyori beef offers a rich, layered experience—brought to life by a quartet of thoughtfully chosen condiments. To begin, taste the beef with coco salt flakes—a unique Japanese salt known for its delicate crispness, subtle salinity, and faintly sweet finish. Then, sample it with both fresh wasabi sauce and a sweet-and-sour plum sauce. The wasabi brings a gentle heat, while the plum sauce—crafted from salted, carefully fermented fruit—lends a bright acidity that cuts through the richness of the beef. Lastly, the creamy garlic sauce rounds out the journey with depth and complexity.
Each slice of beef carries you through four distinct flavour moments, revealing new pleasures with every bite.
If there is a drink pairing, what should it be? How will this drink complement the flavour of the dish?
To accompany the dish, I recommend one of two options: a dry, spicy sake that refreshes the palate while tempering the richness of the meat, or a dry red wine with subtle cheesy notes—an elegant match for the beef’s buttery texture and layered profile.
Above Experience all four dimensions of flavour in sequence—beginning with coco salt flakes, then mustard, apricot, and finally garlic sauce (photo: courtesy of Hibana by Koki restaurant)
Experience all four dimensions of flavour in sequence—beginning with coco salt flakes, then mustard, apricot, and finally garlic sauce (photo: courtesy of Hibana by Koki restaurant)
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Does Chef Hiroshi have any memorable stories about how customers reacted when they first tried this dish? How did you feel when you saw them gasp in awe at something so extraordinary?
The first time I introduced this beef dish in Macau, China, I was genuinely moved. Many of the diners there, already familiar with some of the world’s finest flavours, responded with unexpected delight. Their compliments were warm and abundant, with some calling the beef more tender and melt-in-your-mouth than even Japan’s most renowned varieties. What stood out most was the trust they placed in the chef—allowing me to choose the level of doneness for them, which, I believe, allowed for the most nuanced and complete experience possible.
When creating, one always knows when a dish “clicks”! When was that moment for you?
Although I have invested much time perfecting Yaeyama Kyori beef to near faultlessness, that doesn’t mean the dish is served identically to every Koki diner. For older guests, for example, I might gently reduce the salt for a more delicate finish. For children, I may ease the texture slightly, making the meat softer and less crisp.
The true artistry of the dish lies not only in the unusual cooking method, but also in the chef’s instinctive touch. For me, the spatula and fork on the teppanyaki grill feel like an extension of my hands, allowing me to detect the subtlest changes in the meat as it cooks. The heat of the pan and the sensitivity of my hands work in harmony, and it’s through this connection that the dish eventually “clicks”.
The magic of Yaeyama Kyori beef is that it blurs conventional definitions—rare, medium, or well done become almost irrelevant. There’s no set formula; I “listen” to each piece of beef and make fine adjustments until it reaches its ideal state, tailored to the preferences of the individual diner.
Above Each dish is adapted by the chef to suit the guest, ensuring the most satisfying and personal experience (photo: courtesy of Hibana by Koki restaurant)
Each dish is adapted by the chef to suit the guest, ensuring the most satisfying and personal experience (photo: courtesy of Hibana by Koki restaurant)
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Of course, every chef wants customers to see and feel what they saw when creating a dish. So with this dish, what feelings do you want to share with diners?
The table-side style of teppanyaki cooking at Koki gives diners a chance to experience their meal twice—first with their eyes, then with their palate. Watching the transformation unfold before them heightens the anticipation and deepens their connection to the food. I believe this transparency brings greater emotional resonance. Diners witness the care that begins with sourcing each ingredient and continues through every step until the dish is finally placed before them, at just the right moment to be savoured.
