Cover Chef Dej Kewkacha, Best Pastry Chef from Tatler Best Thailand 2025, talks about the success of Kyo Roll En and the role of pastry chefs in the fine dining industry
Chef Dej Kewkacha, Best Pastry Chef from Tatler Best Thailand 2025, talks about the success of Kyo Roll En and the role of pastry chefs in the fine dining industry
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Tatler Best Thailand 2025's Best Pastry Chef reflects on the rise of Kyo Roll En and the evolving role of pastry chefs in the world of fine dining
Originally, Dej Kewkacha—the heir to the Phuket FantaSea and Safari World empires—had planned to return home to support his family’s tourism business after completing his studies in the UK. But a twist of fate, in the form of a pastry chef roommate during his time in Oxford, would unexpectedly spark a passion for baking—despite having no background in the kitchen.
“I’ve always loved to eat. I was a foodie even as a kid—I loved discovering new restaurants,” he recalls. “But cooking? Not at all. I hated having my hands smell like garlic or fish,” he laughs. “I like things to be clean.”
With a master’s degree under his belt before even turning 25 and no immediate pressure to return to the family business, Dej saw a window to try something of his own. Together with his brother, he launched the dessert brand S’free in 2002, opening their first outlet at Future Park Rangsit with a menu featuring granita and yoghurt.
“I knew absolutely nothing about making desserts,” he admits. “I learned everything from the internet and baking books. That’s why I didn’t dare open in the city centre—I was embarrassed! So I started in the suburbs, quietly,” he grins. The granita idea, he adds, came from a trip to Japan: “I saw it and thought, ‘This looks perfect for our weather.’”
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Dej’s first venture grew steadily, eventually expanding to nearly 30 branches. Throughout this time, he continued experimenting with seasonal creations, offering new menus alongside his regular offerings. One of these innovations—the Hokkaido Milk Roll—quickly became a runaway bestseller, showing no signs of slowing down. Inspired by its success, Dej envisioned a dedicated roll cake shop—something Bangkok had yet to see.
“At the time, the city had plenty of cake shops, but none specialising in roll cakes,” he explains. “So we launched Kyo Roll En—‘Kyo’ from Tokyo, ‘Roll’ from the dessert itself, and ‘En’, which means garden in Japanese, to reflect the beauty and calm of Japan’s iconic gardens.”
The concept struck a chord. Kyo Roll En became so successful that Dej eventually converted nearly all of his S’free branches into Kyo Roll En outlets. Today, he oversees more than 50 restaurants and beverage shops across seven brands.
“I’m glad that the role of chefs is more respected now than when I started out two decades ago,” he reflects. “Chefs have become public figures—awarded, recognised, and admired. It’s a dream career for many young people. But even so, pastry chefs still don’t receive the same recognition as savoury chefs. In the fine dining world, the stars are usually the savoury chefs—they’ve been around longer, they do the full course. We, pastry chefs, come in at the end. We’re always the second act.”
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“I always tell my juniors that if they want to be a pastry chef, there are two paths,” says Chef Dej. “I’ve experienced both. I’m currently creating desserts for Gaggan at Louis Vuitton, so I understand the dynamic. When you're part of a restaurant, your desserts must align with the savoury chef’s vision. You follow their lead from the outset. You can’t just do as you please—you’re number two by default. And in many places, especially here in Thailand, that role may not even exist. So I ask them: can you accept that? If not, you should open your own place—then you’ll have the freedom to do things your way.”
True to his philosophy, Chef Dej carved out his own creative space with Kyo Bar, an omakase-style dessert bar where he curates and crafts each course himself. It is, in his words, a place to “let go”—an outlet for his deeper passion and a canvas for his own vision of savoury-inspired desserts.
“For me, the beauty of desserts lies in the boundless creativity they allow,” he reflects. “It all begins with the same base—flour, sugar, butter, eggs—but from those, you can create thousands of things. It forces you to think beyond the ordinary, to imagine freely. If you look closely, many of the world’s legendary chefs started in pastry. Both Joël Robuchon and Alain Ducasse once told me that starting in pastry gives you a head start, because it trains you to be meticulous. In pastry, even a 0.01 variation can change everything. There’s no guessing like in cooking—it’s a precise craft. It’s the best foundation you can have.”
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When asked about the secret to running a successful dessert business, Chef Dej told Tatler, “Quality has always been the foundation—right from day one. But beyond that, we must never stand still. We have to adapt. For example, sales tend to be slower before 1pm because people usually think of dessert after lunch. So, we look for ways to draw customers in—through promotions, seasonal menus, or creative collaborations. Every chef has an ego, myself included,” he smiles, “but we can’t afford to always please only ourselves. You have to stay attuned to trends without losing your own identity. And above all, know your audience—especially if you’re operating in the mass market.”
Identity, he says, is just as crucial as adaptability. “When someone closes their eyes and takes a bite, they should be able to tell: this is our dessert, our style. That only happens if you first develop your own palate. Your flavour must come from your own tongue. Whether you're creating for a broad audience or for a fine dining menu, you need to have a distinct voice. Otherwise, what makes you different?”
His advice to aspiring chefs? “Taste everything. Travel, explore, try the things that intrigue you. Look at the ingredients, understand how they’re used, how flavour profiles are built. Observe how dishes are plated—how colour, texture, and presentation come together. Don’t copy—learn. Take inspiration and use it to build something truly your own.”
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Credits
Images: Worapon Teerawatvijit
Manta Klangboonkrong has a passion for uncovering exceptional dining destinations and distinctive travel experiences - a trusted voice in Thailand’s luxury lifestyle space.
Reach her at manta.klangboonkrong@tatlerasia.com.
