Cover Yeo Xi Yang, winner of Singapore's Best Sommelier Title, is opening a new champagne bar Convivial that will serve premium pours like Dom Pérignon 2002 and Krug Vintage 1996, as well as lesser-known—but nevertheless exciting—new producers (Photo: Yeo Xi Yang)

The decorated sommelier, who has worked for Les Amis, The Black Swan and Park90, is getting more Singaporeans to appreciate champagne

Few sommeliers are as decorated as Yeo Xi Yang. He began his career as a commis-sommelier at iconic French restaurant Les Amis in 2012. He then served as the head sommelier of The Black Swan, Straits Clan, and as wine director at Park90 over the next 11 years. In that time, he racked up a number of accolades, such as Best Sommelier of Singapore in French Wines 2016 and 2018, and more recently, the title of Best Sommelier of Singapore 2022 by the Sommelier Association Singapore—cementing his reputation as one of Singapore’s youngest and most accomplished sommeliers. 

Now at age 33, Yeo is striking out on his own with his own champagne bar Convivial. Promising to be a haven for champagne lovers, the bar will have a variety of vinification styles and profiles—including heritage pours like the Dom Pérignon 2002 and Krug Vintage 1996, as well as a variety of exciting new producers—alongside a menu of light bites, white meat, and seafood. And if the reviews for Convivial’s pop-up at Stay Gold Flamingo from July 31 to August 12 are any indication, Yeo has chosen the right name for his bar, with a lively atmosphere that captures the sparkling exuberance of champagne. 

Ahead of Convivial’s opening, we spoke to Yeo to find out how the best sommelier in Singapore discovered his fervour for champagne and how he’s sharing that love with the launch of his first-ever bar.

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Above Champagne at Convivial's pop-up at Stay Gold Flamingo earlier this August (Photo: Instagram / @convivial.sg)

What is it about champagne that persuaded you to start a bar centred on it?
It all started 11 years ago when I began my wine journey as a commis-sommelier at Les Amis restaurant. As a young man working in a wine-centric establishment, I had exposure to the world of fine wines. My epiphany came when I tasted a Krug Vintage 1985 in magnum format. It was spectacular; a nose of beurre noisette, brioche and toasted hazelnuts, and a broad mouthfeel held tightly together with crisp acidity and waves of flavours that didn’t want to end. It was vinous, regal, and such a new experience of champagne to me. The price was also a fraction of top end fine wines, so I asked myself, why aren’t more people drinking this amazing wine? My love for champagne took off from there.

How has the process been in getting Convivial up and running?
A rewarding challenge, to put it optimistically. As a first-time business owner, I am facing all the issues you would expect; disruptions during renovations, landlord-related matters, manpower shortages, et cetera. It is not all doom and gloom, though. The highlights so far have been curating the beverage list, working on brand-building with the marketing team, working on the interior design, and planning the menu with the chef–I look forward to these sessions the most. The journey of entrepreneurship gives more emotional peaks, with the highs being very high and the lows being very low. There are no dull moments!

You’ve had many years of experience as a sommelier. How has your training shaped your approach to opening your own bar?
I am immensely grateful to God for the professional journey I have been on thus far. I’ve done all sorts of wine-related jobs, and with that experience, I am confident with operations-related matters. I have been fortunate to work in a variety of settings, and my experience has prepared me to deliver a warm, sincere, welcoming, personal, and deeper level of hospitality to all guests.

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Above Pasta at Convivial's pop-up at Stay Gold Flamingo earlier this August. To complement the champagnes, a menu of light bites, white meat, and seafood will be served (Photo: Instagram / @convivial.sg)

You specialise in French wines, and won the title of Best Sommelier of Singapore in French Wines twice. What is it about French wines that enthrals you so much?
When people think of French wines, adjectives associated are usually charm, romance and prestige. For me, I deep-dived into French wines because I was a sommelier in a French restaurant! 

With that said, champagne is what enthrals me and now I am gifted with the opportunity to share my love for champagne with everyone. How many people get to say they love their work? It is truly a blessing.

What are some of your favourite champagnes?
My heart still dearly lies with the vinous styles like Krug, Henri Giraud and Egly-Ouriet. They are rich, opulent and expansive. That style got me started on my champagne journey, and it will remain as a first-love feeling. I enjoy saline styles like Benoit Déhu and Dehours as well. And of course, not forgetting the ones that smell like a fragrant pâtisserie, such as Salon and Dhondt-Grellet.

What are you most excited about for Convivial?
Getting a full-time job back! I have been unemployed and unsalaried for too long!

Truthfully though, I look forward to running operations and serving guests again. I hope to add a little bit more colour to the Singapore wine scene. Singapore is a global F&B destination, and I hope Convivial will be a contribution to that.

How can a newcomer learn to appreciate champagnes?
YXY:
Champagne is certainly not difficult to appreciate! It’s full of energy and spark, so it takes real effort to dislike. But if you would like to sit up and take notice of what’s in the glass, then I would give a few tips.

Stemware is important. I serve champagne in a glass with a narrow base, a wide and flared bowl, and a long body. The narrow base retains the effervescence, the wide bowl makes the wine release more aromas, and the long body allows the aromas to gather and recollect at the rim. I am exclusively using Kvetna’s Auriga range for Convivial. Discard all your coupes and flutes.

Don’t serve champagne too chilled. I know of people who swear by putting the bottle in the freezer for a good amount of time prior to serving. I’m not an advocate of that. I would serve racy and focused styles of champagne at 5 to 7 degrees Celsius and richer, fuller styles at 8 to 10 degrees Celsius. A temperature too cold would mask flavours. 

There’s no need to swirl your glass before you nose it. Some champagne lovers swirl their champagnes for two main reasons: to release more aroma and to dissipate the effervescence and appreciate it like a still wine. However, the tiny streams of carbon dioxide that rise will pop at the surface of the glass, and that popping releases aromas already. Champagne winemakers go through great lengths to make the effervescence a tactile sensation, a creamy mouthfeel with much delicacy. By removing this element, it is removing a property of the wine. 

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Above Yeo Xi Yang at Convivial's pop-up at Stay Gold Flamingo earlier this August (Photo: Instagram / @convivial.sg)

How has the Singaporean taste for wine and champagne changed over the years?
I am really glad to see where the Singapore wine scene is heading. I believe I joined the industry at the tail-end period where classic regions were the pinnacle of wine-consumption, where Bordeaux, Burgundy and Barolo ruled and reigned. Beginning a bar focused on champagne then would not be wise. I believe wine is all about discovery, and I witnessed the change in consumer  appetite moving in this direction as well. 67 Pall Mall setting up an outpost here and the holding of VinExpo Asia 2023 in Singapore are also key indicators that our market is dynamic, exciting and worth paying attention to. Champagne is diverse as well, with about 5,000 producers, so let’s discover them together!

How do you think Convivial will meet what Singaporeans are looking for in champagne?
I would need to maintain the list’s diversity and breadth, from esteemed estates that have been adored by royalty for centuries, to family-owned farms that have been passed down through generations. My job is to tell their stories and bring meaning to what is in the glass. This will be all wrapped around quality service that will make you want to come back with friends and discover something new again.

What do you see in the future for Convivial?
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe wisely said, “A joy shared is a joy doubled.” If more people are like-minded in sharing the joy of champagne with me, then I should not selfishly withhold that joy. I’d open another outlet!

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