Cover At the Marzilly estate with owner Maxime Ullens in Champagne, France
At the Marzilly estate with owner Maxime Ullens in Champagne, France
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Meet the pioneers challenging centuries-old norms in Champagne
Something you may have noticed the last time you popped a bottle of champagne, other than how delightful it sounds, is the house’s founding date stamped proudly on the label: 1829, 1812, 1811, 1776, 1772, 1729. If you can tell me without googling which maisons those dates belong to, the next bottle’s on me.
More so than in other wine regions, Champagne runs on history and heritage. Landholdings and business ties often span generations, making it notoriously hard to break into.
And yet, there are still those who dare. Rather than dreaming of a Tuscan villa or Napa estate, these pioneers carve out their corner of Champagne, guiding small-batch bottles from soil to shelf. Some are native sons and daughters who returned after time abroad, bringing fresh perspectives to an old world.
Here are five producers reshaping the region, from the first-generation grower of Nigerian heritage to the cellar master reviving his great-grandfather’s cooperative. Their stories, like their wines, are anything but ordinary.
Yvonne Seier Christensen, Champagne Yvonne Seier Christensen Les Cinq Filles
Above Winemaker Yvonne Seier Christensen creates distinctive champagne cuvées
Winemaker Yvonne Seier Christensen creates distinctive champagne cuvées
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Farming Roots and Champagne Dreams
Growing up on a farm in North London, Yvonne Seier Christensen’s earliest passions were for the land and learning. Later, her love of sparkling wine drew her to the vineyards of Verzenay, where she apprenticed at a friend’s winery. That hands-on experience, paired with formal training, a Bachelor of Science in Viticulture & Oenology, set her on the path to founding Champagne Yvonne Seier Christensen. Her first cuvée, Les Cinq Filles, is named after her five daughters.
Champagne with a Conscience
Her farming background instilled a respect for nature, which she channels into her winemaking. The fruit from her Avize vineyard is certified organic, with fermentation processes dictated by patience rather than production schedules. Spontaneous fermentations and low-to-zero dosage cuvées yield wines applauded by top chefs in Europe, Monaco, Dubai, and Singapore.
Tradition Meets Innovation
Seier Christensen embraces both old and new, ploughing her vineyard with horses and using restored basket presses, while also revamping the winery for carbon neutrality. She offers bespoke labels, joint promotions, and even blockchain-tracked provenance tags via Concordium to trace each bottle’s journey.
The Challenges of Standing Out
Breaking into Champagne’s elite circles hasn’t been easy. Big houses often outbid smaller growers like her for luxury contracts, and as a Black female winemaker, she’s had to prove herself again and again. “Men especially need to see me physically in action before they believe I’m the winemaker,” she says. But her commitment to authenticity and quality is unwavering.
Anna Ullens, Domaine de Marzilly, Ullens
Above Maxime Ullens at Château de Marzilly in Hermonville
Above Anna Ullens and her husband Maxime during harvest
Maxime Ullens at Château de Marzilly in Hermonville
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From Brussels to the Vineyards of Marzilly
Anna Ullens and her husband Maxime weren’t born into winemaking. Their journey began when they purchased the abandoned Château de Marzilly in Hermonville, attracted by Maxime’s family background in restoring historic buildings. When soil tests revealed ancient vine roots untouched by phylloxera, they decided to revive the land’s winemaking legacy.
Creative Freedom, Unconventional Approach
With no inherited traditions to constrain them, Ullens and Maxime forged their own path. They rent plots, experiment with vinification methods, and adapt to each vintage’s needs. Crafting their barrels from estate-grown oak, roasted with custom techniques, has become a hallmark of their innovative spirit.
Reviving Lost Techniques
Their small 205-litre barrels, a nod to pre-industrial Champagne practices, help create wines with unique character. Ullens also shares technical details typically guarded in the region, lifting the veil on their process. Their low-dosage cuvées, finished with reserve wine, reflect a blend of tradition and modern experimentation.
Building from Scratch
Establishing a brand-new winery in Champagne posed bureaucratic challenges, from securing production certifications to complying with modern building codes. Renting an existing facility was a stopgap, but now, with hard-won experience, the couple is constructing their dream winery, tailored to their precise needs.
Edouard Duval, Champagne Edouard Duval
Above Edouard Duval inherited the Sainte Eulalie Monopole at 18 years old
Edouard Duval inherited the Sainte Eulalie Monopole at 18 years old
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Legacy and Loss at Sainte Eulalie
For Edouard Duval, Champagne is personal. He inherited the Sainte Eulalie Monopole at 18, following the untimely deaths of his grandfather and father. But rather than rush into winemaking, he took time to hone his skills, working globally before launching his brand in 2015.
Terroir-Driven Excellence
Duval’s champagnes, crafted exclusively from Sainte Eulalie fruit, reflect deep respect for the estate’s history, which dates back to 1095. Precision viticulture and low-intervention winemaking, minimal additives, low dosage, and extended ageing, yield wines that celebrate the terroir’s uniqueness.
Artisan Labels, Scientific Precision
Duval melds art and science. He conducted soil studies to refine vineyard practices and vinification, and collaborated with a local artist to create ceramic labels replicating the estate’s Kimmeridgian soil. His vintage champagnes wear this stone-cooked emblem as a badge of authenticity.
Turning Setbacks into Success
Launching just before the pandemic, Duval faced daunting distribution challenges. Yet, by staying agile, he built a thriving network, proving that even a remote estate can draw enotourists and acclaim.
Christophe Baron, Champagne Christophe Baron
Above Christophe Baron hopes to craft a “unicorn champagne”
Christophe Baron hopes to craft a “unicorn champagne”
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Returning Home, Reluctantly
Though born into a Champagne family, Christophe Baron turned his back on the region, forging a celebrated winemaking career in Walla Walla, Washington. But when his parents gifted him vineyards back home, he couldn’t resist. His goal? To craft a “unicorn champagne.”
Old Vines, Big Bottles
Baron’s single-vineyard, 100% Meunier champagnes come exclusively in magnums. Farming organically, he embraces the natural low yields of his old vines—some planted in 1925. His Burgundian training shines through with oak fermentation, lees stirring, and a commitment to no dosage.
Why Magnums Only?
Bottling exclusively in magnums was a bold choice—one even Baron admits wasn’t strictly business-savvy. But it’s part of the wine’s identity, and he’s sticking to it. “I’m not going to change,” he says, despite requests from wine shops and restaurants.
Riding the Meunier Wave
While Baron hasn’t faced major hurdles (yet), he remains watchful. Meunier is having its moment, but he hopes the love for this often-overlooked grape endures.
Fabian Daviaux, Chavost
Above The great-grandson of one of Chavot-Courcourt’s cooperative founders Fabian Daviaux
The great-grandson of one of Chavot-Courcourt’s cooperative founders Fabian Daviaux
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Homegrown Heritage, Global Vision
As the great-grandson of one of Chavot-Courcourt’s cooperative founders, Fabian Daviaux’s return to Champagne was inevitable. After honing his skills across France, South Africa, California, and New Zealand, he became cellar master at Chavost in 2019.
Purity Without Compromise
Daviaux vinifies without added sulphites, chaptalisation, or other interventions—his range is entirely Brut Nature. Six of his eight cuvées are organic-certified, and every bottle reflects a philosophy of minimalism and transparency.
Tech Meets Tradition
Daviaux balances modernity with respect for the land. The cooperative’s vineyards are chemical-free, while state-of-the-art presses and vats ensure clean, expressive wines. Even the clay used during riddling is carefully selected.
Standing Firm
If a vintage doesn’t meet his standards, Daviaux simply won’t bottle it. His champagnes, pure and aromatic, defy expectations for zero-sulphite wines, proving that meticulous craft can yield extraordinary results.
