Jean-Baptiste Terlay, winemaker at Dom Pérignon teaches us a thing or two about champagne

We met Jean-Baptiste Terlay at the launch of the Dom Pérignon Plénitude 2 2004 (P2 04) at DC Restaurant, where we were treated to a delectable feast prepared by chef Darren Chin that was paired with the fine wine.

Being a winemaker himself, we first learnt a bit about his professional journey before picking his brain about champagne, and learnt some facts about the wine and the ways to enjoy it—one of which is a terrible faux pas but continues to be practised till today.

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How did you get into got winemaking?

I've always been a winemaker and enjoy being close to the vineyard and the raw materials. I was based in the South of France for a long time, in Burgundy and more, but when someone asks if you want to work for Dom Pérignon, you can't say no.

My passion began when I started working for a smaller wine estate where I was involved in sales at its boutique. Then I moved from the boutique to the cellar. While working there, I met customers coming in to taste the wine and winemakers were consulting them about the various types of wines. I remember thinking, "That's a fantastic job, I have to do that". Eventually I moved on to the vineyard of that estate, and kept working and studying about winemaking and the processes.

What is a misconceived notion about enjoying champagne?

The glassware to use. The way of drinking champagne has changed a lot, especially when it comes to wine and gastronomy. I would never recommend anyone to use a flute; it's better to use a regular wine glass to enjoy your champagne.

Tatler Asia
Above All Dom Pérignon's champagnes including the Plénitude 2 2004 are vintage

What makes champagne a vintage?

Basically it means that all the grapes that go into that bottle are from a single year. It's a difficult feat to achieve because if that specific year had no good harvest, there's nothing to produce.

For example, the Plénitude 2 2004, our latest release uses only grapes harvested in 2004—it's an 18-year-old vintage comprising chardonnay and pinot noir.

When is the best time to drink champagne?

It's a versatile wine, and commonly associated with festivities and celebrations. But I believe you can have it any time, in cool or hot weather, at night or at lunch. Although it's uncommon among the French to have it for breakfast, I've noticed Asians enjoy it during this time. There is a booming cocktail culture, and there are amazing champagne cocktails like mimosas or the French 75.

What is one surprising fact you learnt about champagne?

Coming into the Champagne region in France itself, I didn't expect it to be so rainy, cold, and grey. It amazed me that the terroir and the weather in the area can deliver such beautiful wines.

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Aaron Pereira
Deputy editor, Tatler Malaysia
Tatler Asia

If tall, dark and handsome is what you're looking for, Aaron Pereira ticks two out of three. This fine chocolate man (that is, a connoisseur of fine chocolate), enjoys the theatre, futsal, real-life conversations and of course, the English language. He believes that language should first be used to express, but the business of a sub-editor is to impress.

Check out his Instagram @aaronlpereira.