Cover The founders of Mosto, Indonesia's first natural wine bar
The founders of Mosto, Indonesia's first natural wine bar
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At the centre of Canggu sits Mosto, Indonesia’s original natural wine bar, celebrating four years of redefining how the island drinks and dines.
In Italian, mosto means “must”, the freshly pressed grape juice that initiates the winemaking process. While the name still speaks to fresh beginnings, today it represents something fully realised. Founded by Isabella Rowell, Lorenzo De Petris, Federico Sirito, Nicolas Lento, Denny Bakiev, and Vanessa Di Maria, Mosto has matured from a bold newcomer into a foundational, much-loved institution. What began as a rogue belief in low-intervention wines has become the definitive benchmark for the island’s evolving palate.
At the heart of its evolution is a kitchen with its own distinct language. Executive chef Lorenzo De Petris, whose pedigree spans Michelin-starred bastions like Le Gavroche and Ristorante Duomo, has shaped a menu that is European at heart but global in reference. Small, punchy plates form the backbone of the experience: think crostoni layered with shoyu burnt butter, anchovies, and Sichuan pepper, or a lamb rendang xian bing finished with cotija. Pastas are playfully precise—the tagliolini with sambal arrabbiata and coriander is an absolute standout—sitting comfortably alongside generous mains designed for passing around over second bottles.
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Above One of the signature dishes from chef Lorenzo De Petris
Above The interior of Mosto, Canggu
One of the signature dishes from chef Lorenzo De Petris
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“After four years, our focus is simply to keep delivering the funky, bold dishes we love to cook and eat,” says De Petris. “We’re still in our early years; the most rebellious part is yet to come.”
While the food and wine initially draw the curious, it is Mosto's inimitable culture that sustains them. The menu constantly introduces Indonesia to rare cuvées and independent producers rarely seen in the region, keeping formats democratic and accessible. Meanwhile, the beverage programme, masterfully directed by Denny Bakiev, is sharp and modern, blurring the lines between bar and kitchen with house vermouths and seasonal infusions.
Four years on, Mosto is no longer just an introduction to natural wine; it is a culinary anchor. Casual yet deeply considered, radical yet effortlessly familiar, it remains rooted in European sensibility while remaining profoundly connected to Bali’s electric energy. It has become that most coveted of things: a place people always return to.
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Since embarking on her career as a food journalist in 2012, she has penned hundreds of articles delving into culinary trends, chef profiles, and gastronomic destinations across Asia. Born and raised in Bali, Eve is dividing her time between Bali and Jakarta.
