The pioneer in double cask maturation shares a few thoughts about his favourite dram and the evolving whisky industry.
David Stewart, who has served as William Grant & Son’s (WGS) master blender for over 50 years, is one of the humblest people you’ll ever meet. During his tenure he helped put The Balvenie on the map by creating The Balvenie Classic, a unique expression that gave birth to the process of ‘finishing’ or maturing the blend in two different barrels. It changed the game completely, with many other whisky makers following suit. But he hardly talks about it, unless you ask.
His contributions have earned him the prestigious MBE awarded by Queen Elizabeth II, but the doting grandpa, who lives in Glasgow, admits that he’s semi-retired now. He continues to be the guardian of the brand’s quality and consistency, and he relishes the role as it also allows him to pass on his knowledge to the next generation.
We caught up with him at the recent DFS Masters of Wines and Spirits 2018 to reminisce about his illustrious career.
How old were you when you first tasted whisky?
David Stewart (DS): I think I was about 19. I had been working as a store clerk for William Grant & Sons for two years when my boss, who was the master blender then, brought me to the sample room to nose and taste various expressions. That’s how I got started in this role.
How much has the industry changed since you started more than five decades ago?
DS: It’s a lot smaller now. Back then, there were a lot more companies such as Dewar's, Black & White and Long John. Now, they’ve been taken over by either Pernod or Diageo.
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Tell us more about the technique you pioneered.
DS: We started taking whisky from one cask into another in the early ‘80s, when we launched the whisky called The Balvenie Classic. We did a 12 Year Old and an 18 Year Old and we took the whiskies out of the American oak barrels with these different ages and transferred them into European oak sherry casks for a finishing period of a few months. We launched these expressions under The Balvenie Classic (range).
In the early '90s, I was asked to refresh the range because the centenary year of The Balvenie was in 1993, so that’s when I launched the DoubleWood 12 Year Old ... and the whole industry started finishing their whiskies in sherry, bourbon, rum, Madeira casks, you name it.