Journey with Tatler Philippines to Guatemala and discover Zacapa, a rum aged above the clouds

A roughly one-hour drive away from Guatemala City’s La Aurora International Airport lies the city of Antigua. Once the capital from 1543 to 1733, it was later designated a Unesco World Heritage Site, evinced in its cobblestone roads, churches and remarkably well-preserved colonial architecture—a sight not unlike that of Intramuros. It is here that our journey with Zacapa began, as we made our way to Casa Santo Domingo, a convent-turned-hotel.

Together with Zacapa global ambassador Vanessa Leon, Vásquez led us through a master blending class that walked us through the intricacies of the sistema solera, a unique method she devised herself. Most rum distillers use molasses as a sweetening agent, and herein lies Zacapa’s first distinct advantage: its use of sugarcane. Thanks to its abundance of volcanoes, Guatemala is blessed with mineral-rich soil, enhancing the quality of its sugarcane and, therefore, its rum. 

The liquid is distilled by passing it through a variety of cask types and styles: some, for example, once housed Cognac or American whisky. Each of these barrels lends colour and flavour to the final Zacapa rum serve. During the ageing process, the casks are then taken to the mountains at around 2,300 metres above sea level (where cooler temperatures contribute to their unique taste profile), earning the brand the moniker “rum aged above the clouds”.

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Zacapa’s complexity and versatility allow it to be used in a wide range of pairings and cocktail mixes, which we experienced firsthand by visiting three select bars around Antigua. Our first stop was Itzam, which features Mayan-inspired interiors like stone-carved statues, blue-and-green lighting and themed menu. One of the drinks was Ahau Nictal, named after the Mayan sun god, a combination of Zacapa 23, coffee liqueur and cacao liqueur. When served, the top covering the cocktail is set ablaze, emitting a misty white smoke which lends depth to the tipple.

Next was The Charleston, a bar inspired by the Roaring Twenties. The entrance is a narrow corridor that imitates the interiors of a tailor, but once inside, we found ourselves in a sleek, elegant speakeasy. Nevertheless, tradition here persists. We observed this through one of their featured Zacapa drinks called Mayan Sacrifice: a concoction of Zacapa 23, beets and bitter syrup, with vermouth. The small cup it's served in emulates a ritual offering bowl and is meant to be drunk with both hands–a touch macabre, yes, but undeniably entertaining.

Lastly, we visited Los Tres Tiempos, “the three times,” referencing how locals often buy tortillas three times a day for breakfast, lunch and dinner. True to this spirit, it is an approachable, convivial spot, with seating areas and tables grouped close together, encouraging vibrant conversation and socialising. Their comforting finger food, such as platters of crispy pache coquettes, breaded livingston shrimp and Guatemalan-style tacos, complete the experience, especially when paired with a Dark and Stormy: a blend of Zacapa 23, fresh lime juice, simple syrup, orange bitters, club soda and an orange peel.

Following the master blending experience, we made our way to Casa Troccoli, a charming estate that has been transformed into a restaurant. Ascending the rooftop provides a panoramic view of the surrounding city and glimpses of people on the balconies of restaurants. “My grandfather came here from Italy in 1896,” shared Maria Mercedes Troccoli de Beteta, who now runs the household. Indeed, much of the original building remains, including the wine bottle opener that her grandfather brought with him on his voyage. It was here that we were afforded the opportunity to participate in a guacamole-making class, a simple task that revealed plenty: the local passion for ingredients, a zest for life and a deep respect for one’s roots.

The following day, we visited Finca el Tempixque, a coffee and orchid plantation at the edge of three volcanoes: Volcán de Fuego, Volcán de Agua and Acatenango. The short drive up the hillside was invariably filled with ash and dust, no doubt thanks to Volcán de Fuego erupting every 15 minutes. To my initial confusion, we suddenly stopped in the middle of the road, only to realise moments later that we were next to a batch of coffee cherries. One of our hosts, Andrés Herrera, plucked a few for us to taste and explained that only the right temperature and altitude can produce the finest coffee plants.

Throughout the trip, we paid close attention to the Zacapa bottles and noticed that each one is adorned with a special band of petate, made from dried palm fibres and crafted by a cooperative of weavers. These are not embellishments for decoration’s sake, but a conscious message that Zacapa and Guatemala are deeply intertwined. At the stunning Villa Bokéh, seemingly unspoiled by the passage of time, two of these weavers, Felipa Chacaj and Ana Chivalan, shared their story.

A devastating civil war from 1960 to 1996 left lasting issues, one of which was unemployment. Chacaj laments, “[Santa Cruz de Quiche], at the time, was isolated, and the economy wasn’t good.” It was in 1999 that Zacapa entered the community and started the petate weaving cooperative. “Because of this initiative, we felt empowered,” she says. “It meant a lot to us.” Also from the same community, Chivalan lives under one roof with her mum and sister. Thanks to the income she earned from weaving, she was able to pursue an education and become a high school teacher.

Our final evening in Antigua was marked by a dinner at Casa Santo Domingo. As a fitting culmination, the menu featured a starter Zacapa 23 with a corn tamale, duck confit and chocolate ponzu sauce; and Zacapa XO, paired with a brioche roll and salmon tartare—both exhibiting the smooth depth of flavour for which the brand is celebrated. But past the surface of the dinner, I found the opportunity to reflect on our regrettably brief time in the country.

Because of our shared colonial history, it is easy to draw comparisons between Guatemala and the Philippines. Our food is similar and our values align. I was able to spend a few minutes with Vásquez, comparing which words were present in both Filipino and Spanish (to our mutual amusement, chismosa retains its meaning in both languages). But the greatest similarity is to do with people. I saw it as I first arrived at La Aurora, with entire families eagerly awaiting the return of their loved ones. I observed it in shopkeepers assertively inviting you to view their wares. I found it at the final dinner, as we shared meals, laughter and stories.

Zacapa is Guatemala. Every fathomable corner of the country is, in some way or another, involved. Nature has blessed it with high-quality ingredients; the petate bands bind it to its indigenous roots; and the bottles are ever-present at bars and gatherings, in the hands of its people. This is a feat that is seldom replicated, and one that all ought to taste.

Zacapa Rum is available across a wide range of leading bars, supermarkets and S&R & online via the cloud.bar. Zacapa is meant for ages 18 and above. Visit drinkiq.com and drink responsibly. Learn more about Zacapa on their Instagram.

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