Cover The multi-awarded sommelier Jhonel Faelnar never forgets to honour his roots
The multi-awarded sommelier Jhonel Faelnar never forgets to honour his roots
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One of the key figures behind New York’s Michelin-starred restaurants Atomix, Atoboy, and Naro is Jhonel Faelnar, a Filipino sommelier who admits his passion for wine came as a pleasant surprise
Filipino-born Jhonel Faelnar had never imagined a career in the food and beverage industry, let alone achieving recognition in such a competitive field. In 2023, he was named as Wine Enthusiast’s Sommelier/Wine Director of the Year, surpassing four other esteemed nominees in the United States. That same year, the wine lists he curated for Atoboy, Atomix, and Naro—all of which are Michelin-starred restaurants where he serves as beverage director—were recognised by The World of Fine Wine magazine as the best in North America in their respective categories. “It was incredibly special to share that achievement with my team,” the young sommelier reflects.
Faelnar joined the Atomix team in 2018, just in time for its opening, and took charge of its beverage programme as well that of its sister restaurant, Atoboy. Since then, Atomix has earned two Michelin stars and is currently ranked No. 6 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants List. “It’s been a true joy to have contributed to the success of the restaurant and the group. The joy of a perfect service cannot be understated. It’s electric,” the Filipino sommelier declares.
On top of these achievements, he was also honoured as the International Culinary Center - Outstanding Sommelier Alumnus (2017), Wine & Spirits Best New Sommelier (2018), StarChefs Rising Star Sommelier (2020) and Wine Enthusiast 40 under 40 (2020).
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But with all these accolades under his belt, one would think that becoming a sommelier was his childhood dream. However, this was not the case. It was not until he had the chance to explore and travel around Japan, working with fashion retail giant Uniqlo, that he got interested in the many experiences that can be had with food and beverage. This spark eventually led him to move to New York where he landed a job in Amali, a farm-to-table dining spot owned by the restaurateur James Malios in New York’s Upper East Side. “It gave me all the foundational experience I would need to work and succeed in a restaurant setting, where more than enough wine was being opened and tasted on a nightly basis,” Faelnar narrates. He then joined Wine & Spirits Magazine as an intern and simultaneously pursued formal studies with the International Culinary Center, which at the time was offering an Intensive Sommelier programme. Though it was not easy, he persevered to finish the programme all while working nights at that restaurant. “I then pursued further testing with the Court of Master Sommeliers and was hired shortly after,” he says.
Faelnar continues, “It feels like the last 11 years have been a pleasant challenge, to be honest. But it’s probably only because I’ve always been pushing and haven’t quite stopped just yet.” He admits that for an aspiring young man in a new city like him, the journey may be challenging but also very exhilarating. “I needed to have thick skin trying to make it in this environment, but I thrive under pressure and truly enjoyed the successes with the hardships. Not only do you have to learn about the wines of the world, but you need to learn the culture of the place and the city you’re in, along with the people who inhabit it,” says the Ateneo de Manila University alumnus. He also emphasises the importance of making connections and working together with different people to complement expertise. “The more I worked, the more people I met along the way who became instrumental to where I am today. New York is a city where your degree typically doesn’t matter. Your hard work does.”
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Despite astronomical success, the humble 35-year-old does not forget to give back. In 2016, Faelnar joined the board of the Advancement for Rural Kids Foundation (ARK), a non-profit organisation that empowers farmers in the developing world to feed and keep their kids in school, to help host a fundraiser gala for the benefit of communities in need in the Philippines. Fast forward to 2023, the sommelier continued to help organise charity dinners, this time with his friends, chefs Margarita Forés and Johanne Siy, cooking with a team of talented Filipino and American chefs and sommeliers, for 300 people. “I auctioned off a guided trip to Champagne that we finally took in July this year. The [proceeds of] trip will be funding an entire community under the ARK foundation. It’s a real pinch-me moment when you realise your passion for wine can bring people together for a good cause,” he says.
When asked about what he thinks of the Filipino sommelier community, he answers: “I love seeing and watching it grow. The scene in Manila looks so exciting these days and I cannot wait to be a part of it. I think we’re only at the beginning. I enjoy hearing from Filipinos from around the world in different stages of their wine journey.” And for those aspiring to become a sommelier, the humble wine expert advises, “Dive right in. Start tasting. If you’re not prepared to study like you’re going to law school, this may not be the career for you. But also, wine is in the glass, not just in books.” He encourages aspiring sommeliers to find a place or a job that will allow them to taste as many great wines from around the world. “When you have the chance to, visit those places and take it all in. Wine speaks to where it’s from and the hands that made them, so it’s a non-negotiable to get out there and see it in real life.”
Despite being busy with everything on his plate now, Faelnar reiterates that balance is key. “It’s a constant challenge to keep yourself centred. It is, however, a worthy, daily goal. When I make the time for it, I draw and doodle whatever comes to mind, especially in the quiet of my home. It’s a beautiful thing to let go when it comes to art considering how structured my day-to-day life is,” he shares.
In 2022, Faelnar started a wine label with a partner in Santa Barbara called Likha Wine Co. “It’s an exciting time to explore the making of wine and I cannot wait to share this new venture when the wine finally makes it out into the market this fall. It’s been a labour of love figuring it all out. Who knows, maybe a few cases will make it to Manila,” Faelnar teases.
For Faelnar, a sommelier represents “the pinnacle of hospitality as a member of the front of house team… generally one of the most experienced and elegant professionals on the floor, along with being a hospitable guide to the wine list.” Successful sommeliers, for him, are “confident, knowledgeable, driven and most importantly, kind.” Unknowingly, he has become the very embodiment of these qualities he describes, and just like wine, he gets better over time.
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Credits
Images: Courtesy of Jhonel Faelnar
Whether on assignment or not, Maritess is always on the lookout for off-the-beaten-path destinations as well as the yummiest finds in the Philippines and abroad. In 2020, she plunged into the black hole of Korean la la land. Follow her escapades at @matetreyes.
