Cover Simone Sammuri, sommelier at Francis and Francis West
Simone Sammuri, sommelier at Francis and Francis West
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The Italian sommelier also shares his most memorable pour and what's hiding in his cellar
Our By The Glass series invites sommeliers and experts in the world of wine to share some inspiration for your next pour.
Growing up in a quaint town on Italy's northwest coast, Simone Sammuri cultivated an affinity for wine artisans who prioritise environmental responsibility, and those who practice a low intervention, organic and biodynamic approach. His wine selections at Middle Eastern restaurants Francis and Francis West mirror this focus with lists predominantly from European coastal regions such as the coast of Portugal, Pantelleria, Malta, Santorini, and Israel. Sammuri's eclectic palate, however, is not confined to Europe. A few carefully chosen treasures from New World regions like South Africa and Ancient World locales like Lebanon grace the list, reflecting a diverse and holistic appreciation for wine.
Before Francis, Sammuri polished his craft in the bustling wine scenes of London and Sydney. His impact was evident during a tenure at the Italian enclave, 121BC in Hong Kong, leading it to clinch the title of Best Wine Bar List consecutively in 2014 and 2015 at China’s Wine List of the Year Awards. Later, Sammuri also claimed the title of the Best Sommelier of Hong Kong by Vinitaly International in the 2018-19 cycle.
We took a moment to chat with Sammuri to ask about his wine of the moment and the treasures that occupy the prime spots in his cellar.
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An early (in your career) wine that made you say ‘Wow! (I want to be a sommelier)’
I visited Tuscany with six friends. We started in San Gimignano and followed that with “Il Paradiso di Manfredi” in Montalcino. I will never forget this experience. We received such a warm welcome from a lovely family. We heard lots of wonderful stories and enjoyed some truly great Brunellos. That was when I started to realise my connection with the wine world.
Most memorable pour
A 1961 Barolo Riserva from Giacomo Borgogno, a historical area located in Piemonte. I poured it in 2009 when I was working at Terroirs, a very unique and successful wine bar in London.
Tipple for a Tuesday
Red wine. Something uncomplicated and easy-drinking. A fresh Gamay from Beaujolais or a juicy Garnacha from Catalunya.
Sun, sea and...
Champagne, of course. Alternatively, I have recently tasted a bright and off-dry Pet Nat from South Africa, a spontaneously fermented fizz made by Testalonga called “I wish I was a Ninja”—a really fun wine that screams summer.
Wine of the moment
Wines from Mount Etna, an active volcano in Sicily, are recently gaining popularity due to their unique and fascinating terroir. Think lavic soil, high altitude and indigenous grape varietals. Also, Etna Rosso. The grapes are Nerello Mascalese and often Nerello Cappuccio. They’re really astonishing, and some of the hot producers include Girolamo Russo, Tenuta di Passopisciaro,
and I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna.
What you wish a customer would order (so you can taste it—for taint, of course)
1998 Clos du Bourg Sec from Domaine Huet, a fantastic Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. I’m a big Chenin fan.
What you love to recommend to guests
Recommendations always depend on the customers’ preferences in terms of style, budget, and the food selection that they want the wine paired with. I personally love to recommend a skin-contact macerated wine, or orange wine due to its amber colour, to guests, as these wines are very versatile, complex and fun.
Best from your by-the-glass list
My favourite at the moment is a 2018 Montefalco Rosso from Lungarotti, which is pouring at Francis West only. It’s a Sangiovese blended with Sagrantino and Merlot from Umbria, Italy; a generous, warm, earthy red wine with some beautiful notes of sweet spices, wild berries and a dry, long finish.
Bottle to bring to a dinner party
I would go for a Dry Lambrusco Rosato from Emilia Romagna, like Labrusca from Lini 910. It’s a very versatile wine, ideal to start with as an aperitif, but it can also be paired with vegetarian dishes, charcuterie and pizza.
What’s in your cellar?
A bottle of 1997 Château Musar White: a blend of white indigenous grapes from the Bekkah Valley, Lebanon called Merwah and Obeidi.
Last glass
A glass of 10 years old Madeira from D’Oliveira. It’s a fortified wine made on the island of Madeira, off the coast of Morocco. It’s a well-balanced Madeira with moderate sweetness and some lovely citrus and aromatic notes. It's a wonderful choice to end your dining experience.
If not wine, then what?
A Gin and Tonic. I love a Mediterranean Gin Mare and tonic garnished with basil and citrus. It's such a refreshing and beautiful summer drink.
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A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.
She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.
Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes.
