Cover Five white Burgundy wines that won’t break the bank (Photo: Nicola Lee)
Five white Burgundy wines that won’t break the bank (Photo: Nicola Lee)
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From mineral-driven Saint-Romain to rich Meursault, these five bottles show the breadth of white Burgundy without requiring a grand cru budget
White Burgundy is a deceptively simple description. In wine shorthand, it usually means chardonnay from Burgundy, although other grape varieties such as the increasingly popular aligoté also have their place. Even within chardonnay, the range of expression is remarkable: the taut, citrus-driven wines of Chablis, the layered whites of the Côte de Beaune and the more generous fruit of the Mâconnais. The fascination lies in the detail. Soil, slope, exposure and vintage all shape the wine, while the grower’s decisions in the vineyard and cellar help explain why bottles from neighbouring plots can taste so different.
Wine is often seen as an investment, but for those buying it to drink, the more immediate question is where value can still be found. With that in mind, I scoured Singapore’s wine merchants for white Burgundies at approachable prices. The following selection is intended for drinking now, with bottles chosen for their freshness, character and affinity with the dishes we enjoy here. Burgundy may command reverence, but its wines need not be beyond reach.
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Domaine Hubert Lamy, Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Concis du Champs” 2019, 13%
Oliver Lamy, son of Hubert, is regarded as one of Burgundy’s most forward-thinking vignerons, with a particular reputation for his white wines. The domaine is now considered one of the leading estates in the Côte de Beaune, while still offering good value. White wines account for around 80 per cent of its production, making it a reliable address for those exploring the appellation.
With some age in bottle, this Chassagne-Montrachet displays intense aromas of lemon curd, baked fruit and green apple, with touches of spice and marmalade. Rich on the palate, it balances ripe fruit and chalky minerality with moderate acidity, culminating in a crisp, saline finish. A versatile pairing for dim sum and sushi, while its mature complexity makes it an exceptional partner for roast duck.
Domaine de la Bongran “E.J. Thévenet”, Viré-Clessé 2020, 14.5%
Above Domaine de la Bongran vineyard
Domaine de la Bongran vineyard
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Domaine de la Bongran is no ordinary Mâconnais estate. Since 1972, the Thévenet family has produced wines for a discerning following, often at relatively modest prices. The family also holds back its wines before release, with this flagship cuvée spending five years in the cellar.
Deep golden yellow in colour, the wine shows aromas of tarte tatin, peach and pineapple, with a candied quality on the nose. The palate is rich and highly textured, making this a wine that benefits from time in the glass. Decanting in a narrow decanter allows its aromas and flavours to open up. An exceptional match for crab bee hoon, crisp tempura, or a selection of cheeses and charcuterie.
The grapes are harvested by hand at a high level of ripeness, with residual sugar contributing to the wine’s distinctive character. It is aged in oak barrels for 20 months.
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Esprit Leflaive, Saint-Romain Sous La Velle 2020, 13%
Above Brice de La Morandière, fourth-generation winemaker of Esprit Leflaive
Brice de La Morandière, fourth-generation winemaker of Esprit Leflaive
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Esprit Leflaive is a venture launched by Brice de la Morandière in 2018, the fourth-generation head of the renowned white wine producer Domaine Leflaive. The wines are made by long-standing winemaker Pierre Vincent and are released ready to drink, without requiring further ageing.
The 2020 Saint-Romain is rich and complex, with an intensely ripe nose. Elegant on the palate, it shows stone fruit, pear and lemon alongside hints of brioche and mineral notes. Medium acidity keeps the wine balanced, leading to a lingering finish.
Set in the hills above Meursault, the high-altitude village of Saint-Romain is an increasingly interesting appellation. The east-facing Sous la Velle plot sits at 370 metres above sea level. The wine spends 12 months in oak barrels, 15 per cent of them new, followed by six months in stainless steel vats.
It pairs particularly well with a cheese platter or charcuterie board. Allow around 30 minutes for the wine to open up. An NFC label also provides access to further information about the wine.
Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux-Hudelot, Saint-Romain 2024, 13%
Above Domaine Jean Michel Gaunoux Saint Roman 2024
Domaine Jean Michel Gaunoux Saint Roman 2024
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This relatively young estate is headed by Jean-Michel Gaunoux, who worked with his father at Domaine François Gaunoux before acquiring vineyard parcels from his mother’s family in 1990. His holdings include small parcels across the Côte d’Or. The vineyards are managed without pesticides, while green harvesting is used to keep yields low and new oak is used sparingly.
This is a lovely wine for summer drinking, fresh and bright on the palate with citrus fruit and aromas and flavours of lemon and pear. Light-bodied with high acidity and a delicious saline finish, it pairs particularly well with mussels, vongole or simply a few olives.
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Domaine Fabien Coche, Meursault Les Chevalières 2023, 12.5%
Above Domaine Fabien Coche, Meursault Les Chevalières 2023, 12.5% (Photo: Grand Vin)
Domaine Fabien Coche, Meursault Les Chevalières 2023, 12.5% (Photo: Grand Vin)
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If the surname brings to mind the legendary Domaine Coche-Dury, you are quite right: Fabien Coche is a cousin of Jean-François Coche.
For those who enjoy a full-bodied white, this is a fine expression of Meursault. Aromas of candied lemon, pear and lightly toasted hazelnut lead to a palate of guava and rounded fruit, with a satisfying finish and moderate acidity. Unfiltered, the wine works well with a range of main courses, from roast chicken to lemon sole. It also pairs effortlessly with most Chinese dishes, particularly steamed fish, suckling pig, and chicken rice (sans chilli).
The grapes are sorted before being whole-bunch pressed. Fabien uses a pneumatic press, adjusting the pressure according to the vintage. Alongside traditional 228-litre Burgundy barrels, he also uses 300- and 500-litre barrels. The wines spend around 18 months in barrel on their lees, with minimal intervention and little, if any, bâtonnage. All the wines undergo full malolactic fermentation, while production has been entirely organic since 2019.
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Nicola Lee brings together a passion for hospitality, wine and travel with a career in property investment. A graduate in Hospitality & Tourism Management, she is managing director of a property investment company and a freelance wine and travel writer for The Business Times and Tatler Singapore. A dedicated Champagne enthusiast, Lee’s extensive collection was featured on Channel NewsAsia’s Remarkable Living in 2019. She is also Academy Chair (SEA South) for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, placing her at the heart of the region’s evolving dining scene.
