Hi Res02-03-2023Bess LeederPh Affa Chan
Cover Bess Leeder (Photo: Affa Chan/Tatler Hong Kong)

Before she became wine shop Leeder Quay’s resident wine expert, airline industry veteran Bess Leeder had another passion—hatmaking

In 2019, milliner and former flight attendant Bess Leeder, who founded her eponymous hat brand, opened popular Mui Wo neighbourhood wine shop Leeder Quay with her husband Solomon. The wine shop recently established its second branch inside a historic building in Central. Here, the “air milliner” talks to Tatler about marrying her two passions.

What’s the story behind your moniker “the air milliner”, and what inspired you to launch Bess Leeder Millinery?
I spent a decade of my life mostly in the air, so I thought [calling myself “the air milliner”] would be a catchy label that would reflect who I am. I worked for Virgin Atlantic and travelled a lot to London. During my time off there, I was inspired by the city’s millinery culture. I enrolled in a summer course with the London College of Fashion, which was then followed by a professional hat-making course with Prudence Millinery, the milliner for Vivienne Westwood. Bess Leeder Millinery was formed in 2012, around the time that my flying career was coming to an end.

What inspires your designs?
Coco Before Chanel [the 2019 film by Anne Fontaine]. I was totally in love with and inspired by the story, couture and art direction.

Do you have a signature design?
My signature design is my boater hat that has a matching handmade pin. The pin is multipurpose—it can go on the hat or it can be worn as a brooch.

How long does it take to make one of your creations?
Anywhere from two weeks to a month, depending on the complexity.

What have you learned from your hatmaking career?
I was never good at planning and was always very hasty, but the millinery business and making hats from scratch involve a lot of designing, planning and of course sewing, which [now] give me a sense of calm.

Where does your appreciation for wine come from?
My husband. He has been training me [in wine] since the day we met. Now I can’t live without wine. We have spent a lot of time in South Africa and other winemaking countries, which has really opened my eyes [to the craft]. At the beginning of the wine venture, I was more devoted to my millinery work, but as time passed, I have become more involved in Leeder Quay. I am trying to use my artistic skills to enhance the branding of the business.

What expertise do you and your husband bring to the business?
I bring an artist’s touch to the branding, and a flight attendant’s trademark smile [laughs]. My husband focuses more on the product development and sourcing of the wines and other beverages.

Leeder Quay’s first shop is in Mui Wo. What’s the story there?
We used to live on Hong Kong Island and eventually moved to South Lantau. The shop came about by coincidence when I was sourcing materials for my hats. I kept returning to this old hat shop at the Mui Wo ferry pier. After many visits, the shopkeeper mentioned that he wanted to spend more time with his grandchildren and wondered if we could work together. The arrangement meant that I would look after the shop and help him sell his hats. I agreed on one condition: that I could also sell our wines at the store, which at that time we had only sold online.

Your Central store is in a Grade 1 listed building. What inspired your decision to open the shop in such a storied location?
We love the location, as it is in the heart of Hong Kong. It is unique with its ultra-high ceilings, wooden beams and iron girder reinforcements, which give it style and character that are hard to replicate. The idea was to make the space homely, like an extension to our living room, where customers wouldn’t be intimidated and could happily wander in to browse and sample our offerings.

What do you think makes Leeder Quay such a success?
It’s the combination of offering something that is good value, sourced directly from the vineyards, with bespoke tasting experiences. We held classical concerts [at the Central shop] over Christmas and are looking to team up with artists and musicians to enhance our customers’ enjoyment.

What makes Leeder Quay a “value vigilante”?
That is our motto. We go to different corners of the world to look for unheralded and underappreciated wines, and bring them back to share with others.

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