Are native grapes the next big thing in the wine world?

The global dominance of international grape varieties — valued for their consistency and adaptability — has long overshadowed these indigenous treasures. Yet, consumer tastes are shifting. More wine drinkers are seeking authenticity over ubiquity, craving wines that tell a story: about the soil, the climate, and the people who craft them.

This trend is evident even in far-flung markets such as Thailand. Christian Martena, chef and co-owner of Clara Ristorante in Bangkok, notes: “We've noticed a growing number of customers looking for unique and authentic wine experiences. They’re not just after a drink — they want a narrative in every glass. This shift is elevating the entire dining journey and adding a new layer of excitement to our wine pairings.”

At the forefront of Italy’s native grape renaissance is Cantine Polvanera, a family-run winery in Puglia. Founded 23 years ago by Filippo Cassano, Polvanera has made it its mission to champion the region’s indigenous grapes. “We believe Puglia’s native varieties carry the essence of our terroir,” says Cassano. "By focusing on these grapes, we’re not just making wine; we’re safeguarding a centuries-old legacy."

Among Polvanera’s standout creations is the Primitivo di Gioia del Colle DOP, an ancient grape deeply entwined with Puglia’s winemaking history. But the winery doesn’t stop there; it also cultivates lesser-known gems such as Maresco, Aleatico, Bianco d’Alessano, Aglianico, and Susumaniello. Each wine offers a distinct profile, from bold and spicy to fresh and mineral-driven, all produced through organic methods that honour the Murge plateau’s limestone-rich landscape.

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“Just a few years ago, finding these varietals in Thailand was nearly impossible,” recalls Martena, who hails from Puglia himself. “Now, the tide has turned. Wines like Polvanera’s Primitivo 17 have captivated the market with their powerful yet elegant character — a true testament to the extraordinary quality these native grapes can deliver.”

This renewed interest in indigenous grapes isn’t solely about taste; it’s also about sustainability. With vines naturally suited to their environments, fewer pesticides, fertilisers, and artificial interventions are required, making these wines a more eco-friendly choice. Polvanera’s long-standing commitment to organic practices resonates strongly with consumers who value environmental responsibility as much as sensory pleasure.

As Polvanera continues to gain traction in Thailand, it taps into an audience that is not only curious but also increasingly discerning. Thailand’s dynamic culinary scene, with its bold, diverse flavours, provides an ideal setting for these characterful wines.

The global wine landscape is evolving, and native grapes are stepping back into the spotlight. With wineries like Polvanera leading the charge, the world is rediscovering the allure of authenticity, one glass at a time.

*This article was published thanks to the contribution provided for by European Union regulation no. 2021/2115.

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