This new Central Japanese restaurant offers a relaxed omakase format without sacrificing style or sophistication
The Japanese word ‘kappou’ (or ‘kappo’) has the literal meaning of ‘to cut and to cook’, and is used to describe a style of restaurant where diners can witness those very things in action. Normally, this assumes counter-style seating where the chef is on full display as they prepare each dish—a form of culinary theatre where the experience is as much about the removal of barriers as it is about showcasing a certain level of skill. For this reason, our first word of advice for diners at Ryota Kappou Modern is to, when booking, ignore the beautiful “lounge” seating set along the windows of the room and opt for the aptly named “stage kitchen counter”.
The first thing you’ll be aware of is the highly edited design of the space, with its chic palette of speckled stone, marble and slate providing the neutral backdrop to the luxurious pops of blond wood, copper, gold and emerald. A soundtrack of delicate jazz plays silkily in the background, while the brigade works quietly in the open kitchen. One chef places a piece of kinmedai over a net set atop smouldering binchotan, lightly smoking it for a later sashimi course; another is finishing up our first course with a garnish of shiso flower buds, that look striking against the pale green hue of an olive-infused somen.
That first course sets the tone for the meal—a chef’s choice collection of around eight courses showcasing the highlights of the season—with its simple beauty and clarity of flavour. The chilled noodles have a springy bite, matched with the fresh crunch of thinly sliced radish and pert prawn; underneath, tiny and translucent shiro ebi (baby white shrimp) add an extra level of umami. The next course of shirako tempura is a treat with its creamy texture, though the batter was not as light as one would expect. Tiny flakes of yuzu zest add just a touch of perfume to the rich milt.