Executive chef Julien Mercier
Cover Executive chef Julien Mercier

Planning for a Christmas feast? Here are three classic French recipes which have been given a festive twist

Christmas is a big affair in Julien Mercier’s hometown in Saint Etienne, France. The executive chef of Claudine, who moved to Singapore last year to helm the French restaurant, tells us that on Christmas day, his whole extended family would celebrate at their home. “It’s a potluck so everyone brings a dish. Someone always prepares a starter, another aunt brings a turkey, and a cousin brings the oysters,” he recalls, and the feasting would often start at 12pm and end very late at night.

The festive season and memories of Christmas gatherings back home have inspired Mercier to give classic French recipes a holiday twist. His foie gras, for example, has a touch of five spice, dried fruit and nuts, while the duck rillettes is made more festive with the addition of orange. Harking back to the time when he and his family would forage for mushrooms in October, which were then dried and used during the festive season, he also created the pâté de campagne.

“I tried to make these recipes as beginner-friendly as possible,” he affirms. Even better, these can be prepared well in advance, so you don’t have to rush on the day of your Christmas party. 

Read more: The Best Gourmet Christmas Menus to Enjoy This Festive Season

Nougat de Foie Gras

Tatler Asia
Nougat de Foie Gras (Image by: Tadeu Brunelli)
Above Nougat de Foie Gras (Image by: Tadeu Brunelli)

Ingredients

  • 1 foie gras deveined (500-600g)
  • 40 ml cognac
  • 80 ml red port wine
  • Salt and pepper
  • 30g pistachio (skin removed)
  • 30g pine nuts
  • 30g almonds (skin removed), diced
  • 30g dried Cranberries
  • 30g dried Apricots
  • 1 pinch of Chinese five spice powder

Note: This recipe needs to be prepared at least 3 days before serving.

Method

  1. Three days before your gathering, marinate the foie gras with cognac, port wine, salt and pepper. You should use 12g of salt and 2g of ground pepper per kilo of foie gras. Keep refrigerated overnight.
  2. Cut the apricots into small cubes and toast the pine nuts and almonds. Mix all the dried fruits and nuts together.
  3. The next day, cut the foie gras into large cubes (about 5 cm) and mix it with the dried fruit mix. Add a pinch of five-spice powder and mix gently.
  4. Press the foie gras in an oven-proof terrine mould and cover it with tin foil. Let the mixture return to room temperature before you place it in the oven.
  5. Preheat the oven to 85 degrees and place the terrine in a bain-marie¹ for about 20 minutes or until it reaches 54 degrees in the middle of the terrine².
  6. Remove the terrine from the oven. Let it sit for 1 hour and then refrigerate³ for 2 days before consumption.

Tatler Tips

¹ To create a bain marie, place the terrine mould in a baking dish and fill the dish with warm water until it is halfway up the sides of the terrine mould. This helps with temperature control and reduces the potential for overcooking.  

² You will need a temperature probe for this.

³ To achieve a nice shape, place the terrine with weights after it has cooled down to room temperature. Wrap a piece of cardboard in clingfilm, place it on top of the terrine and weigh it down with your preferred weights (I usually use a carton of milk) before placing it in the fridge. While in the fridge, leave the weights on for 3 to 4 hours and then remove them.

Pâté de Campagne

Tatler Asia
Pate de Campagne (Image by: Tadeu Brunelli)
Above Pate de Campagne (Image by: Tadeu Brunelli)

Ingredients

  • 350g pork liver
  • 900g pork belly, skinless
  • 400g pork collar
  • 2 whole eggs
  • 2 yellow onions, medium-sized
  • 30g dry black trumpet mushrooms
  • 50ml cognac
  • 100ml liquid cream
  • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
  • 1 bunch flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

Note: You need to prepare this recipe at least 3 days in advance before serving.

Method

  1. Three days before, pass all the meat through the grinder together with the onions and garlic¹.
  2.  Rehydrate the mushrooms in warm water and chop them roughly.
  3. In a big bowl, put all the ingredients together and then season with 12g of salt and 2g of ground pepper per kilo of the mixture. Mix well, cover it with plastic film and keep it in the fridge overnight.
  4. The next day, put the mix in an oven-proof terrine mould.
  5. Preheat the oven to 140 degrees and place the terrine in a bain-marie² for 25 minutes.
  6. Lower the temperature to 90 degrees and cook until the pâté reaches 65 degrees to core temperature. You can use a probe or a knife to check it³.
  7. Once cooked, let it rest outside the oven for 2 hours and place it in the refrigerator. Let it sit for 2 days before consumption.

Tatler Tips

¹ If you don’t have a grinder at home, you can buy the different cuts of meat from the butcher and ask them to grind it for you. Finely mince the onions and garlic and add them to the minced meat.

² To create a bain marie, place the terrine mould in a baking dish and fill the dish with warm water until it is halfway up the sides of the terrine mould. This helps with temperature control and reduces the potential for overcooking.  

³ If you don’t have a temperature probe, insert a thin knife or needle into the centre of the pâté. Leave it for 20 seconds. Remove it and place it on the very edge of your bottom lip. It needs to feel hot (almost unbearably so) on the bottom of your lip.

Rillettes de Canard à L’Orange

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Rillettes de Canard à L’Orange
Above Rillettes de Canard à L’Orange

Ingredients

  • 4 duck legs (each 300g)
  • 30g whole head of garlic
  • 300g duck fat
  • 40g chopped candied orange or orange marmalade
  • 5 sprigs thyme
  • Salt and pepper

Method

  1. For the duck legs, cut and separate the drumsticks from the thighs.
  2. In a cocotte or Dutch oven, melt a spoonful of duck fat. Add the duck and sear it nicely until golden in colour.
  3. Add 200 ml of water, thyme, the whole head of garlic cut in half, and the rest of the fat.
  4. Lower the head of the stove to the bare minimum until the mixture simmers.
  5. Cover and cook until the meat falls off the bone. This will take around 2 hours.
  6. Let it cool to room temperature.
  7. Remove the bones, skin and sinew. You should yield about 700g of meat.
  8. Filter the fat through a sieve and set it aside.
  9. In a bowl, add the meat while it is still warm or in room temperature. Season generously with salt and pepper, then add the chopped candied orange or the orange marmalade.
  10. Add the reserved duck fat gradually with a spatula until you can see the liquid fat in the mixture¹ (you may not need to use all of it).
  11. Put in jars and place in the refrigerator to cool completely. This will keep for 2 weeks in the fridge. 

Tatler Tip

¹ Use a spatula to mix the meat with the fat. Stir constantly and keep adding the liquid fat until you can actually see a small layer of fat emerge through the meat. This is an important step. If you don’t add enough fat, the rillettes will be too dry. If too much fat is added, it will make the mixture overwhelmingly rich. 

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