On the verge of extinction, the Boholano asin tibuok has become an emblem of indigenous Filipino foods and why they must be protected
Salt carries plenty of weight. In semiotics, it conveys a religious meaning (“you are the salt of the earth”). In the culinary world, it supports and sustains flavour. In history, it represents an era of turbulence during a time when wars were waged over a reservoir of salt. In the Philippines, a particular kind has become emblematic of indigenous food and culture.
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South of Manila, on an island in the Pacific, the venerable tradition of the asin tibuok lingers in danger of extinction. Bohol, known for its Chocolate Hills and tarsiers, is home to the unique egg-like salt that, since the 1990s, has slowly, but surely declined. Nestled on a clay vessel and shaped in a mound, the asin tibuok is one of the Philippines' many indigenous foods that have been gaining recognition after nearly being wiped out. Those who have had the opportunity to taste this salt describe it as sharp, smoky, and earthy. Chef Don Baldosano, who has incorporated asin tibuok into his menu at Linamnam Manila, uses the adjectives “smoky”, “light”, and “clean”.
From Sea to Salt
Unsurprisingly, the flavour profile of asin tibuok has plenty to do with the way it is made. Like most artisanal foods, it takes plenty of time and effort—around three to seven months, in fact. Coconut husks are soaked in seawater for months at a time to allow the absorption of sea minerals. Afterwards, they are drawn up from underwater and chopped into smaller pieces to be sun-dried. This follows the fiery process of slowly singeing and burning them for days, creating a coconut charcoal and ash mixture, which is used to filter seawater poured and roasted into the clay pots. Slowly, as the liquid evaporates, a solid dome of salt forms creating the asin tibuok. It is a tedious job, time-consuming, and for some time, incredibly thankless. But now, interest is trickling in and this piece of local heritage may just have a chance at regaining its fame.
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