Photo by Sonny Thakur
Cover Photo by Sonny Thakur

On the verge of extinction, the Boholano asin tibuok has become an emblem of indigenous Filipino foods and why they must be protected

Salt carries plenty of weight. In semiotics, it conveys a religious meaning (“you are the salt of the earth”). In the culinary world, it supports and sustains flavour. In history, it represents an era of turbulence during a time when wars were waged over a reservoir of salt. In the Philippines, a particular kind has become emblematic of indigenous food and culture.

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South of Manila, on an island in the Pacific, the venerable tradition of the asin tibuok lingers in danger of extinction. Bohol, known for its Chocolate Hills and tarsiers, is home to the unique egg-like salt that, since the 1990s, has slowly, but surely declined. Nestled on a clay vessel and shaped in a mound, the asin tibuok is one of the Philippines' many indigenous foods that have been gaining recognition after nearly being wiped out. Those who have had the opportunity to taste this salt describe it as sharp, smoky, and earthy. Chef Don Baldosano, who has incorporated asin tibuok into his menu at Linamnam Manila, uses the adjectives “smoky”, “light”, and “clean”. 

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Photo by Sonny Thakur
Above Photo by Sonny Thakur

From Sea to Salt

Unsurprisingly, the flavour profile of asin tibuok has plenty to do with the way it is made. Like most artisanal foods, it takes plenty of time and effort—around three to seven months, in fact. Coconut husks are soaked in seawater for months at a time to allow the absorption of sea minerals. Afterwards, they are drawn up from underwater and chopped into smaller pieces to be sun-dried. This follows the fiery process of slowly singeing and burning them for days, creating a coconut charcoal and ash mixture, which is used to filter seawater poured and roasted into the clay pots. Slowly, as the liquid evaporates, a solid dome of salt forms creating the asin tibuok. It is a tedious job, time-consuming, and for some time, incredibly thankless. But now, interest is trickling in and this piece of local heritage may just have a chance at regaining its fame. 

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Photo by Sonny Thakur
Above Photo by Sonny Thakur

A Sin to Waste Asin

Needless to say, the history of asin tibuok is just as interesting. While it would be difficult to pinpoint exactly when and how asin tibuok came to be, researchers have noted that Filipinos had already been making asin tibuok even before the Spanish colonisation. The pre-colonial tradition is credited to have started in Albuquerque, Bohol, where asinderos (or salt-makers) would trade their goods for rice or other basic necessities. Despite its longevity, however, the asin tibuok faces major challenges in contemporary times. For one, the work is undervalued. Despite the laborious processes it must undergo, in late 2010 and early 2020s, it was only priced at Php80 to Php150 per piece. As such, the children of asinderos held very little interest in continuing the legacy. 

Not only that but the infamous Act for Salt Iodization Nationwide (ASIN Law), enacted in 1995, made it even more difficult for asin tibuok to become a sustainable livelihood. Though well-meaning, the ASIN Law forced many local artisans to give up their trade when the government required producers and manufacturers of food-grade salt to iodize salt meant for import, trade and/or distribution. The goal of the law was to promote health by ensuring that the public had enough iodine in their diets to avoid physical illnesses such as goitre, mental retardation, physical and mental defects, and cretinism.

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In the late 2010s, there were calls to repeal or amend the ASIN Law from those who stated that it inhibits the development and further growth of local sea salt farming. It also forced the country to import salt. Whereas before the ASIN Law was enacted, the Philippines was 100 per cent self-sufficient in salt.

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Above Linamnam's Scallop Express (Photo: @linamnam_mnl / Instagram)

How to Cook with Asin Tibuok and Where to Buy

Fortunately, these days, there seems to be a growing interest in asin tibuok and other heritage foods. Toyo Eatery and Linamnam Manila are just a few of the local restaurants that have incorporated it into their menus. “Asin tibuok is one of the most precious and interesting ingredients that we have in our country," says chef Baldosano of Linamnam. "Hopefully one day every household would have one asin tibuok to cook with.” Personally, the chef has used it in his own restaurant on recipes such as scallop express and Bicol express. “We use the asin tibuok as a curing salt for our scallops, which accentuates the sweetness of the scallops.”

Home cooks who are intimidated to give this egg-shaped salt a try needn’t be worried as chef Baldosano has assured us of its versatility. “A great way to use it is to just grate a tiny bit on your seafood or vegetables as a final seasoning just to bring out its flavour. [It can also be used on] something as simple as a dip for your manggang hilaw [unripe mangoes].”

Those looking to purchase asin tibuok may do so or inquire through several specialised food stores or online. Otherwise, exploring the barangays of Alburquerque in Bohol firsthand is a fantastic way to meet the asinderos, try fresh asin tibuok, and support the local community. 

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