Cover Mieral Bresse chicken in sourdough (Photo: Écriture)

Chef Maxime Gilbert continues his exploration of the intersection of Japanese and French cuisines this summer

Having served its distinctive brand of contemporary French-Japanese cuisine from the top of H Queen's for three years running, Écriture has recently completed a light refresh of its interior to better welcome landbound diners hungry to travel through their tastebuds.

Gone are the sculptural white dining chairs, replaced by more discreet black leather chairs that better blend into the interior. Meanwhile, a bonsai perched on a round table takes the place of the long console in the centre of the main dining room to offer servers more space to manoeuvre.

See also: An Inside Look At Écriture

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Above Miyazaki wagyu with black truffle (Photo: Écriture)
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Above Ploueneur Menez pigeon (Photo: Écriture)

Coinciding with the spatial change, executive chef Maxime Gilbert and chef de cuisine Heloise Fischbach have unveiled the new Library of Flavours and Vegetal tasting menus that take advantage of produce grown during the height of summer. The new eight-course Library of Flavours menu (HK$1,980 per person) continues Écriture's focus on artisanal producers from France and Japan, highlighting the best meat, poultry, seafood and vegetables that both cradles of gastronomy have to offer.

Among the new additions are the Ebisu oyster with Loire Valley French beans in garlic butter, tonburi aka “land caviar” cured in beef ham, sea water, oyster dashi, and sour cream, a combination which features interplay between textures and imparts a deep umami; the moreish grilled Nishimera trout with delicatesse potatoes, dill and pine; and the show-stopping Mieral Bresse chicken cooked whole in a loaf of sourdough to ensure even doneness, then served with sea urchin sauce and accompaniments of grilled chicken thigh with sushi rice, and a xiao long bao infused with red pepper bouillon. 

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Above Pineapple tomato ratatouille (Photo: Écriture)
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Above Zucchini tart (Photo: Écriture)

An eight-course wine pairing curated by restaurant director Marc Antoine Compper is available for HK$1,390, featuring expressions from the likes of François Cotat, Michel Redde Majorum Pouilly-Fumé, and Suzukagawa sake brewery.

Pastry chef Cyrus Yan's touch is also evident throughout the meal, from the bread basket of fresh homemade sourdough bread and brioche feuillete with butter from the Loire Valley; to the desserts of cherry sorbet with elderflower panna cotta, and buckwheat mousse with chocolate sorbet.

As always, the eight-course Vegetal dinner menu (HK$1,888 per person) shines the spotlight on seasonal vegetables in a starring role. Gilbert deftly interprets the characteristics of diverse ingredients, such as kohlrabi, wild mushrooms, Australian black truffle and fennel into everything from ratatouilles and tortellini, to sorbets and tartes tatin. 

See also: The Best Vegetarian And Vegan Tasting Menus In Hong Kong And Macau

Écriture
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26/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong

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