Restaurant

Écriture

Écriture grows from strength to strength under chef Maxime Gilbert, with flawless and often technically remarkable culinary creations that channel his native France and also Japan, especially in terms of produce. Beautiful and innovative they may be, but happily, flavour, finesse and texture are also delivered in spades. The Library of Flavours menu lives up to its name with a succession of knockout dishes that feature frequently expensive, top-quality ingredients. A brilliant tart of uni and caviar is as decadent as it is delicious, while the turbot and foie gras is typical of a creation you’ll find in no other restaurant, especially when it’s wrapped in seaweed and poached in dashi. The 140-day-old poularde is memorable and reminds you what chicken could (and should) taste like. Quince cooked in a hibiscus bouillon is accompanied by a plum preserved in vinegar, part of a stunning dessert taking sweet and sour to brilliant heights. Charming, warm service and sommeliers complete the very impressive picture.

What to order

• Akamutsu: this fish from the East of Japan is steamed at the table with sake, imparting incredible depth of flavour while perfectly cooking the flesh.
• Turbot - Foie Gras: another innovative and unusual combination, but again highly successful, thanks to the line-caught fish from Brittany being cooked au plat and singing perfectly with the creamy decadence of the liver.
• Quince: The simply named dish is taken to new heights thanks to a hibiscus bouillon and confiture of plum preserved in vinegar that leave it touched by greatness.

Tatler Tip

Optional extras on the tasting menu like wagyu and caviar tart add considerably to the cheque, but are more than worth it to see how Gilbert treats some of the world’s best produce.