Cover (Photo: Unsplash)
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Christmas on the beach? After the most devastating parts of the pandemic, La Union's nightlife and F&B scene seem to have found fruitful resurrection
For the longest time, I had mistakenly believed that the best beaches near Metro Manila were all south of the city. But a few years ago, a new haven was brought into mainstream consciousness: La Union. A sanctuary for surfers, San Juan, La Union is famed for its waves, which can accommodate both amateurs and professionals on the surfboard. But that's not all because Urbiztondo (which is doubtless where you and your friends will head to when on a road trip north), is also renowned for its nightlife and F&B scene.
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For nearly two years, tourism in La Union had taken a plunge as wary travellers stayed shuttered at home. But now, beaches and road trips have come back again—and with a vengeance. It seems as if everyone is excited to get away—and for good reason. On a trip to La Union during the "-ber" months of 2022, I discovered that the beach town is alive and kicking yet again.
Of course, I must pay tribute to my first love in the area: Coco Mama, the dessert stand that now operates in both La Union and Boracay. In 2019, it had been well-known for its straightforward offering of coconut sorbet served in a coconut shell, topped with fresh Philippine mangoes, rice crispies, and wild rice. In 2022, Coco Mama expanded to include a pandan-flavoured sorbet in its menu. Unavailable in Manila, Coco Mama has yet to diverge from its island setting, which is also why I order a two-scoop serving every time I visit.
While you're at The Great Northwest, the beachside food park that also houses Coco Mama, you might want to consider having dinner at Kermit. Perhaps my favourite restaurant in La Union, Kermit serves a fantastic risotto al funghi porcini. Paired with cocktails and a pizza, it becomes a fantastic meal to cap off the night. Stay longer to enjoy beats by a DJ and dance the night away as you enjoy a view of the beach just outside their doorstep.
For a more casual meal, diners often visit Sabong Fried Chicken; though I have to be honest, it's not my favourite spot. It is worth a try, however, if you're looking for a filling meal to pair with your El Union horchata (which is still a La Union favourite in 2022). Just outside The Great Northwest, on the beachfront side sits a humble street food stand. If you're looking for a pre- or post-game setting, it's a fantastic place to grab streetfood staples such as isaw, barbecue, and hotdog.
Kabsat comes as another popular recommendation, with modern architecture that sits on the prime beachside property. Cocktails, nachos, and sets by a DJ are the perfect accompaniment to the waves. La Gringa, a Mexican streetside eatery located nearby Clean Beach, is a go-to option for casual dinners. I was able to speak to the owner quickly in between orders and she mentioned that she travelled to Mexico to bring authentic tastes to the Philippines. Needless to say, their tacos are a failsafe.
Last, but not least, Masa Bakehouse (which now has a branch in Metro Manila), the popular breakfast spot that sits a few kilometres from the beachside. People hop into their cars—or in my case, a tricycle—to visit. Situated in a warehouse with a small garden beside it, Masa Bakehouse continues to serve freshly made baked goods daily. From babkas to pan de sal, they offer a wide variety of sweet and savoury snacks, plus breakfast options that include hummus, shakshouka, sandwiches, and even chicken masala.
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When you're not out eating in La Union, you're most likely lazing away on the beach. Of course, you absolutely must go surfing—even if you haven't tried it yet. For Php500, anyone can access a surfing instructor and board for an hour. Head straight to the waves, relax, and follow your instructor's guidance. What makes Urbiztondo a fantastic place for first-time learners is that the water isn't too deep. The waves start getting good fairly close to shore, where the water is around four feet deep; this makes it less intimidating for people who haven't had any surfing experience, or people who aren't very comfortable in the water.
After surfing lessons—which are best done around sunset—you're probably back off to your hostel or hotel to prepare for a night out. Flotsam and Jetsam is a no-brainer and you can more or less guarantee the place to be packed on Fridays and weekends. While it's still a good time there, the pandemic did bring with it a few changes. In 2020, they switched their hours and began operating from 5pm to 9pm. Now that restrictions have eased up, they allow the party to last until 11pm—though that is still pretty early. By the time the clock strikes 11, bright white lights will be turned on, the DJ will apologise for ending his set, and disappointed partygoers are forced to find another spot to spend the night. Hopefully, as the holidays are approaching, the party can last longer than usual.
So as someone who doesn't frequent La Union too often, how can I say that the scene is booming in surf town yet again? Well aside from the sheer number of people around the area, it was comforting to see a few familiar faces on the beach too. Friends from university—most of whom I hadn't seen since graduation—were suddenly in line with me at Masa Bakehouse. Acquaintances and classmates from college were dining at the next table in Kermit, and new friends were made as I sat under the shade of a beach umbrella obediently taking videos of friends learning to surf. It seemed as if everyone was back—or at least making plans to visit again soon.
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