Cover A transgender model wearing a gown inspired by chains and armour poses in a metal scrap depot

Internationally renowned photographer Fernando Manso veers away from his distinct tranquil and romantic photography to capture a sector of society that deserves much more recognition

Acclaimed Spanish photographer Fernando Manso has been widely praised for elevating the ordinary to the extraordinary in his distinct photography without being too surrealistic. Marked by his masterful command of light, Manso’s photos (taken using a large format analogue camera) offer a romantic, nostalgic, and even poetic outlook on reality.

About five years ago, his partner Bea Zobel Jr asked him: “Fer, why don’t you try to get some different pictures for your career? Everything seems so romantic and peaceful, with quiet landscapes and architecture. Why don’t you try something with [big] production and [avant-garde] concept?”

This propelled Manso to fly again to the Philippines and capture several Filipinos in their places of work. From north to south, he shot men working at the pier, farm, market and more. But perhaps the most striking in this series was his photographs in Cebu coordinated by Cary Santiago, featuring transwomen wearing campy couture made by fashion designers Jongz and Aldo Loquinario while at public locations.

Read also: Transgender Icons on the Importance of Representation

Tatler Asia
Above Shot in a wet market, Manso juxtaposes old women vendors with a model dressed in aqua gown with fins and scales

Bold, daring, and showstopping. Indeed, the on-location shoot, which spanned one week, has made time stop. Manso's juxtapositions have become more prominent, while the pop of colours from the Loquinarios' creations gave the photographs vibrancy. But most importantly, the ladies who posed for hours have added a new meaning to Cebu's moniker, "the Queen City of the South". With much pride and joy, Manso highlighted the diversity and social realities in the country's population with his Filipinas series.

The process began with Manso choosing six among 25 transwomen suggested by Santiago. Afterwards, the designer let him choose from fashion creations that would best highlight the beauty of the models. The concept of showing them in real-life situations was concretised after, as they needed to find locations across Cebu where these so-called costumes would best fit in the picture. "My idea was that 'why don't we try something different?' So, we've decided to look for elements you would not see very often in fashion photography," Manso says.

Read also: Neal Oshima's Advice for Young Photographers: Think Outside the Box

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Above An “Ice Queen” wears white corset and bejewelled headdress

Despite the fish market’s busyness, Manso let the people stop for about four to five hours to compose the place and take a single photograph. “It was an incredible experience and very complicated,” says Manso. “Making people around wait for hours, not cross and block my frame. It was an incredible task but all thanks to the people there who have helped us.” Manso continues reliving his experience of setting up a beautiful young lady dressed like a fish juxtaposed with old female fish vendors and bulks of fish in a weighing scale, wooden crates, and lying on the floor.

“This is why I love the Filipino people,” says Manso, praising the vendors, buyers and some police authorities who helped them in the production. “They have the best smiles and great [creativity in] production,” he adds.

Manso is known for his patience in his work. With a large-format camera prevalent in the late 1800s, he explains that he needed to capture “a great moment with great light”. Furthermore, he needed to take the negatives to Madrid and develop them, which makes his photography an “act of faith”, he says.

Read also: A House in Madrid With Floating Steps and an Impressive Art Collection

Tatler Asia
Above A model in a neon reptile-inspired costume poses amid tombs in a cemetery

The renowned photographer owes Santiago for mounting this herculean task five years ago. Aside from gathering models who participated in the gay beauty pageant in Cebu held in August of 2017, Santiago had to organise the whole shoot sometime in January the year after, including contacting the glam team, selecting the costumes, and securing locations. “It was like family,” Manso quips. “We all had a good connection. We stayed in the same hotel and then relaxed with our dinners after spending the whole day working,” he said.

Aside from the fish market, Manso also took photographs in a cemetery, a metal junkyard, a market area where fighting cocks are sold, and an ice plant—which was another complicated location for it was a feat to create an ice palace out of huge blocks of ice, not to mention having the model sit on one. Manso praised the professionalism of Santiago’s team and the workers in the ice plant while he was styling the set.

The people passing by in these public places were in disbelief while Manso was in his element. But more so, the ordinary citizens who posed with the ladies—like the older man holding a walking stick and resting his hand on the cage of roosters—were beyond words.

“I wanted to highlight interesting parts of the Philippines’ culture, as well as how exceptional Cary Santiago is, and more importantly, give those beautiful ladies the opportunity to shine,” Manso explains. Throughout his career, the photographer would work with cisgender female models, but he committed to the challenge of thinking outside the box. “It was my first time working with transwomen, and it was incredible. They were wonderful, beautiful and very professional.”

Read also: At The Top Of Their Game: Philippine Tatler Ball Awardees 2017

Tatler Asia
Above Cockfighting is part of Filipino culture. In this shot, Manso captures a model wearing a bejewelled headpiece and gilded feathery costume in yellow and russet-coloured feathers while standing by a cage of roosters and a cockfighter

In comparison to other cities he has been to, Madrid, for example, the LGBTQ+ community has contributed to many improvements in many economic sectors, according to Manso. In many countries, the Philippines included, the community celebrates Pride Month in June, which the photographer finds right and just. "They give life and colour to the scene; that's why I have many friends who are part of the community," Manso says. "In Madrid, they are very much respected because of their notable contributions, and I hope it's the same in the Philippines," he adds.

He commends today's generation for changing our understanding of gender identity and sexual orientations, citing his children also having good friendships with those in the community. Also, more and more people have come out of the closet in the last five years, a sign that we are starting to build a safer space compared to the generation Manso grew up in. He hopes to continue this throughout the rest of the world, especially in countries where it is still illegal to be gay.

"Strong, powerful and beautiful," Manso describes the photographs. He shares that some of its copies have been bought by some esteemed collectors despite featuring transwomen simply because of its impact.

Looking back at the one-week shoot in Cebu, Manso shares that he is elated not only by the fantastic photographs but also by the genuine bond he has made with the LGBTQ+ community.

"If you have a good connection with the people and uphold good values and morals, it doesn't matter if you're a man, woman, gay, or lesbian. What matters most is we respect each other," Manso shares.

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Credits

Photography  

Fernando Manso

Interview  

Anton San Diego

Production  

Cary Santiago

Outfit  

Jongz and Aldo Loquinario