Renowned Chinese chef, Sam Leong, shares his thoughts on what Singaporean cuisine really is, and where he goes for his absolute favourite local dish

Sam Leong
He’s racked up a considerable list of accolades, has represented Singapore at several global culinary events, and is frequently described as a celebrity chef – yet, Sam Leong remains refreshingly down-to-earth.
Widely recognised as a proponent and trend-setter in modern Chinese cuisine, Leong began his career in Singapore at 28 years old, starting as executive chef of Jiang Nan Chun at Four Seasons Hotel, before moving up to his appointment of director of kitchens/corporate chef for the Tung Lok Group. He has also served famous public figures including Lee Kuan Yew, former US presidents George Bush and Bill Clinton, and Queen Elizabeth II of England.

Sam Leong's Cooking Studio at Resorts World Sentosa
Having left the Tung Lok Group in 2010, Leong is now a culinary educator in addition to helming his restaurant Forest at Resorts World Sentosa. He professes his love for the fuss-free hawker centre dining experience, and relishes the sense of personal fulfillment gained from sharing his culinary knowledge with anyone from students to housewives and white-collar workers, through his cooking school, Sam.Leong@Forest.
Here, the renowned chef tells us his thoughts on Singaporean cuisine, and where he goes for his favourite local dish.
Asia Tatler: Italy has its pasta and Japan has its sushi – Singapore seems to have less of a distinct identity in terms of cuisine. What are your thoughts on that?
Sam Leong: Our history is very short, so people mostly know Singapore for its hawker food. We have multiple cultures in Singapore, so even within Chinese food, there are so many categories – Teochew, Hainanese, etc. It’s difficult for us to identify what Singapore food is all about, but we’ve been very strong in our street food and hawker-style food.
AT: Do you see it developing beyond that?
SL: Why should we fix something if it isn’t broken? People come to Singapore because they know what we are all about, and they know where to go for say, good, high quality seafood or local food. So I think we should stick to what we are and maintain the quality and standard.

AT: What is your favourite local dish, and where do you go to get it?
SL: I’ve loved chicken rice ever since I was a boy. I love the rice, so you can give me a plate of chicken rice without the chicken and I’d be happy. Personally I like to go to one in Queenstown – they used to be at Margaret Drive but they’ve since moved. It’s called Sin Kee.
AT: What changes have you observed in food and eating habits?
SL: Lifestyles have changed. In the past, when people went to restaurants, they’d eat quickly and go home. Now people take their time to enjoy their food and maybe open a bottle of wine. Asia is changing, especially in Chinese restaurants; they carry a good wine list, and serve meals slowly, course by course. Maybe it’s because people travel a lot, they work hard, and want to appreciate more time with their families.
AT: What makes you proud to be a Singaporean?
SL: I’m from Malaysia, my wife is Thai, and for us to give up our citizenships to become Singaporean, there’s only one reason – I believe that our government is working hard and doing a good job for its citizens. Every Singaporean has shelter and they’ve created a lot of jobs for us.
AT: If you had one wish for Singapore, what would it be?
SL: Majulah Singapura!
Photos: Sam Leong; Singapore Tourism Board
Uniquely Singaporean: Loh Lik Peng
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