Do we need to remind the public what the El Primero is? It’s a movement, a calibre, an icon, a collection, a model—almost a brand on its own. And, all at once, a paradox. A unique example in watchmaking.
El Primero is the mouthpiece of the Zenith manufacture. Initially introduced in 1969 in Baselworld’s Hall 1.0, the movement took the industry by storm for its frequency, beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, setting a new standard few could meet. And this world premiere movement? It was housed in the reference A386, a watch with a bold dial design with three different coloured subdials and an angled date at 4:30. Back then, a completely modern take on the chronograph design, the A386 is sought after model on the vintage market. And now, with Zenith’s Revival series in precious metals to celebrate 50 years of its legendary movement, the brand has exclusively created with the Fine Watch Club a limited edition of the iconic A386—an honour bestowed solely on the Club, available only for its members.
Its mechanical precision is the core of its DNA. Capable of beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour since 1969, this calibre has been at the heart of the manufacture’s collections as well as that of other brands, such as the inescapable Cosmograph Daytona from Rolex, of which the first vibrations were powered by the El Primero.
Heavy-duty time
Versatile and elegant, the El Primero united trends of its time. The incarnation of absolute precision in the 20th century, the movement entered the 21st century by becoming visible through an open dial showcasing the escapement and by surpassing itself (El Primero Defy 21 with a 1/100th of a second chronograph movement).
Today, the El Primero remains lauded for what it represents in watchmaking history as well as its achievements. The fact that it can measure up to one tenth of a second makes it precise enough for the majority of cases. Anything more than that can be, and has been, measured using electronic instruments, and the El Primero remains the modern-day de facto leader in pure mechanical chronometry.