Cover Of all luxuries prized by watch collectors, perhaps nothing rivals the experience of watching time unfold. Photo: Vacheron Constantin
Of all luxuries prized by watch collectors, perhaps nothing rivals the experience of watching time unfold. Photo: Vacheron Constantin
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Of all the finer things in life, few compare to the sheer poetry of time in motion. More exquisite still for watch collectors is when that time is rendered tangible—captured on the wrist in the form of a finely crafted mechanical masterpiece.
Have you ever heard of Vacheron Constantin? If not, then one thing is certain: you have yet to step into the rarefied world of those who “play” with time—time made tangible on the wrist, better known as the realm of luxury watches. And why single out one of the Swiss watch industry’s revered “holy trinity”? Quite simply because this was among the first names to leave a lasting impression on Vietnamese watch collectors—and so it remains to this day.
As early as the 19th century, Vacheron Constantin timepieces found their way to Vietnam, acquired by a select group of discerning customers. With a heritage spanning more than 260 years, the maison’s archives hold numerous records of orders placed by Indochinese clients, written in elegant French. One such example dates back to 6 September 1898, when Chan Hoan Long, a native of what is now Long An province and an avid connoisseur of horology and fine jewellery, penned a letter to the Swiss manufacture. His request? A catalogue detailing its timekeeping mechanisms, with a view to servicing both wristwatches and wall clocks. He noted that the brand had already piqued the interest of many collectors at home.
Two centuries later, Vietnam has evolved from a country sending polite letters of inquiry to one where not only Vacheron Constantin but also other storied watchmakers have firmly established a presence. What was once a niche pursuit for a privileged few has grown into a thriving community of enthusiasts.
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Hobbyists gather the quintessence…
“A house is bought to live in, a phone to make calls and send messages—so why invest in a watch that does nothing more than tell the time?” It’s a question often asked by those yet to be drawn into the luminous world of haute horology. After all, a simple three-hand watch with a date function can command eye-watering sums, while grand complications require both investment and mastery to operate. And yet, to those watch collectors who truly understand, timepieces represent far more than mere utility. On their wrists, they carry a delicate interplay of artistry, craftsmanship, and history—an expression of time itself.
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Rather than opting for electronic or battery-powered alternatives, true aficionados seek the pinnacle of horology: the mechanical watch, revered as the purest form of timekeeping. At its heart lies a meticulously assembled network of gears and springs—a passion that has captivated generations of men. With nothing but their hands and centuries of expertise, master watchmakers have housed these intricate mechanisms within cases of precious metal. Some timepieces boast perpetual calendars, capable of tracking the date, day, and month with flawless precision for centuries. Others feature moon-phase indicators requiring adjustment only once every 122 years, or chiming mechanisms that echo the grandeur of cathedral bells—powered not by circuits, but by the rhythmic oscillations of meticulously crafted components.
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What technology has long sought to perfect, human hands have already refined to its highest form. Wrought by the world’s greatest artisans and safeguarded by the legacies of illustrious maisons, each timepiece carries an intrinsic value beyond the sum of its parts—one that speaks to heritage, expertise, and an enduring pursuit of excellence.
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On the wrists of Vietnamese collectors
In any pursuit, Vietnamese enthusiasts display an impressive level of dedication. While the descendants of the old Binh Lap master may no longer pen handwritten letters to request bespoke orders, they no longer need to—advancements in technology and the seamless accessibility of information have brought the world of fine timepieces directly into view.
Fifteen years ago, the idea of mechanical watches in Vietnam largely revolved around Rolex and Omega, their presence confined to glimpses in foreign films. Below them sat Longines, Tissot, Seiko, and Citizen—brands that watch collectors at the time considered premium, with price tags in the thousands of dollars. Now, the great names of haute horology are not only familiar to serious watch collectors but also to casual admirers. From the revered Swiss “holy trinity” of Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet to the more esoteric allure of Breguet, Blancpain, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Jaquet Droz, these masterful creations adorn the wrists of enthusiasts from all walks of life. Many of these maisons have now officially entered Vietnam, a testament to the market’s evolution. Spotting a Rolex Submariner, valued in the hundreds of millions of VND, or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak on the wrist of a young café-goer in a major city has become an everyday occurrence.
Above Chopard - LUC XP Urushi Vietnam Edition
Chopard - LUC XP Urushi Vietnam Edition
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This shift is, first and foremost, the result of Vietnam’s remarkable economic growth since Doi Moi. Yet more significant is the rise of global connectivity and digital access, which has allowed collectors to immerse themselves in the international horological landscape. Just over a decade ago, enthusiasts relied on foreign catalogues or boutique visits to seek information. Now, with a few clicks on Facebook, they can explore, discuss, and track down the most coveted timepieces. Though Vietnam was a latecomer to the world of fine mechanical watches, collectors have swiftly established themselves, leaving a distinctive mark. One of the clearest indicators of this is the official arrival of major brands. Within a few short years, the “holy trinity” of watchmaking has debuted in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, joined by Richard Mille, Rolex, Piaget, and Chopard, among others.
A new playground full of potential
Beyond offering official distribution channels and making commercial collections available to Vietnamese collectors, brands have demonstrated their recognition of the local market through exclusive, Vietnam-inspired editions. These include the Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Vietnam Edition, limited to just 10 pieces worldwide, featuring the Vietnam time zone prominently on the dial; the one-of-a-kind Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Ha Long Bay I, with an exquisite miniature depiction of Ha Long Bay; and the trio of Chopard L.U.C Urushi Vietnam Edition models, unveiled in 2020, which unite Swiss watchmaking expertise, Vietnamese artisan craftsmanship, and the refined Japanese tradition of royal lacquer artistry.
Today, Vietnam’s community of fine watch connoisseurs stands as a proud testament to a passion that extends beyond possession—it is an appreciation for mechanical precision, the artistry of human hands, and the legacies that span generations. This growing fraternity is expanding not only in numbers but in depth of knowledge and refinement. The once-niche “wrist shot” has now become a familiar sight, capturing not only significant assets but also an enduring spirit—one of understanding, admiration, and shared appreciation.
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And there is still much to anticipate. This was further underscored by the inclusion of Vietnam in the prestigious GPHG exhibition in October 2024, alongside insights from GPHG chairman Raymond Loretan on the future of Vietnamese watchmaking—a future that will flourish only as the domestic collector’s market reaches full maturity. Emerging microbrands such as MarkLe and Oan.Gio are making their presence felt on the international stage, hinting at the promise of a robust collector community. Singapore has already established itself with the distinguished Singapore Watch Club, and there is no reason why Vietnam cannot follow suit. The journey may be long, but for true enthusiasts, the game is rich with possibilities.
Article originally published in the February 2025 issue of Tatler Vietnam
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