Cover Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox
Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox
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The Tag Heuer Carrera is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year
When one speaks of chronograph watches, perhaps none springs to mind as frequently as the Tag Heuer Carrera. Developed for the world of motorsports, the Carrera is an icon that, as the Swiss manufacture loves to say, has found favour with human icons like Mick Jagger, Ryan Gosling and Formula 1 champion Max Verstappen. It is widely considered to be the benchmark for timekeeping excellence with an enviable legacy to boot.
Read more: Tag Heuer Carrera 60th anniversary limited edition
“When people consider the most recognisable designs in this space, the Carrera is certainly among the very top choices," remarks Nicholas Biebuyck, the heritage director of Tag Heuer. "When you look at the earliest pieces from 1963, [the watches] offer absolute legibility.”
Above Nicholas Biebuyck (Photo: Stephane Sby Balmy)
Nicholas Biebuyck (Photo: Stephane Sby Balmy)
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He elaborates that Jack Heuer really pushed for the idea of a highly legible, easy to read watch especially when one is engaged in a high adrenaline sport as motor-racing where every second counts. The original design consists of no superfluous elements, in addition to the tachymeter scale being relocated to the tension ring on the outer side of the dial for a more unobstructed view of the chronograph counters. (The tension ring, which is a proprietary innovation for the Carrera, also enhances the watch's waterproof capability.)
“You're timing a race under pressure. Focusing on the legibility of the design is what makes the Carrera a purpose-led product that everyone value so highly," muses Biebuyck.
A six-decade worth of history has only bolstered its reputation. In 1969, it was part of the triptych of models to launch Calibre 11, one of the earliest automatic chronograph movements. Throughout its life, the Carrera has become something of a legend on the race track, strapped on the wrists of everyone from Ronnie Peterson and Derek Bell to Sergio Perez and Verstappen.
“It’s not just about the savoir-faire of creating the product, it’s also the connection to the remarkable human endeavour of motor-racing. These drivers chose to wear a Heuer because they understood that it was the strongest connection to motor-racing and it was something that they saw would give them good luck,” says Biebuyck, a self-confessed motorsports fan.
Above Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary Edition with panda dial
Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary Edition with panda dial
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While he is not directly involved in product development, his opinion is often sought out by the watchmakers. For instance, he suggested updating the panda dial for Carrera's 60th anniversary limited edition for LVMH Watch Week earlier this year. “The panda dials are one of the rarest, most desirable Carreras,” he quips, alluding to the 2447 NS which had a limited production run.
Asked about his favourite Carrera, he immediately replies: “The solid gold Heuer Carrera 1158 CHN , which was also Jack Heuer's favourite. Aside from that, the panda dials are absolutely iconic for me and they look so fun.”
Birthday Presents
Tag Heuer introduced two more anniversary editions at Watches & Wonders 2023. The first is the Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox in 39mm stainless steel case in a blue or reverse panda (white counters against black) dial. The sapphire crystal is shaped similarly to the domed crystal found in Heuer Carrera models from the 1970s, but redesigned so that it’s curved seamlessly over the tachymeter scale to match the curved flange and indexes. Apart from improving legibility, these fixes also allow the tachymeter to be read from a wider range of angles.
It’s powered by the next-generation Heuer 02 with an oscillating weight equipped with bidirectional winding capability—the previous iteration only winds the mainspring in counter-clockwise direction.
Above Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox with blue dial
Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox with blue dial
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Above Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox with reverse panda dial
Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox with reverse panda dial
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Then there is the Tag Heuer Carrera Tourbillon, which makes its spellbinding spin at 6 o'clock. Powered by the in-house TH20-09 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve, the 42mm stainless steel watch sticks mostly to the modern aesthetics of the above chronographs but include deep azure chronograph counters flanked by silver ring, a central seconds hand with a triangular shape inspired by 1960s racecar dashboard instruments, and orange accents in the outer edge of the dial.
Above Tag Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Glassbox
Tag Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Glassbox
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
