Crafting an enamel dial demands the same high level of precision, skill and, patience as that of engineering a mechanical watch movement
Enamel is soft glass composed mainly of silica. When heated at extremely high temperatures, it liquefies and fuses with metal. It can take on different colours when mixed with other elements such as red with iodine and green with chromium, a useful trait when it comes to creating delicate works of art.
In experienced hands, like Ulysse Nardin’s very own enamel specialist Donze Cadrans, an enamel dial maintains its radiance forever, the vibrant hues promising not to fade with the passing of time. Here are the stories behind three main types of enamelling technique—grand feu, champlevé and cloissone.
1. Grand feu
Perhaps the most commonly used technique, grand feu is no less tricky to execute. Meaning “great fire” in French, grand feu involves coating a metal disc with enamel a few times. Between each coating, the enamel is fired up the enamel at temperatures of 800 to 900°C. This process is repeated a few times to achieve the desired motifs, colours, and depth.
Another difficulty of the process is that due to its susceptibility to external environment such as humidity and weather, not all enamel will come out perfect. In fact, most will suffer from blemishes and bubbles, and have to be discarded.
A fine example of this technique is Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon Blue Grand Feu. The dial boasts a combination of two traditional watch decorative techniques—guilloche finished with deep oceanic blue grand feu enamel, one of the toughest colours – not to mention one of the prettiest—to achieve for enamel.