From Breitling and Richard Mille to Ulysse Nardin, Zenith and Hublot, these rainbow watches give colour its moment on the wrist
Rainbow dials and gem-set spectrums have become a recurring theme across watchmaking in recent years, and this edit brings together some of the standout examples, old and new. From Breitling’s dive watches dressed in Super-LumiNova hues to Hublot's tourbillon hiding 444 coloured gemstones.
Tatler rounds up seven standout watches, spanning skeletonised movements, invisible gem-setting and surrealist case designs, that make a strong case for colour as horology's most playful creations.
Breitling Superocean Automatic Rainbow

Above Breitling Superocean Automatic Rainbow (Photo: courtesy of Breitling)
For Pride month, Breitling’s Superocean rainbow editions are worth a look. Hour markers and hands are coated in Super-LumiNova across the full spectrum, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet, red and orange, glowing under daylight and underwater alike. The design revives the 1960s Superocean Slow Motion. Three versions are available: a 42mm and 36mm in white, each limited to 150 pieces, and a 42mm in black, limited to 200, where the rainbow detailing stands out most against the dark dial. All run on the COSC-certified Caliber 17 with 300 metres water resistance, so it's a proper dive watch wearing its colours.
In case you missed it: RM 41-01: a sporty complication Richard Mille loyalists have waited for
Richard Mille RM 07-01 Coloured Ceramics

Above Richard Mille RM 07-01 Coloured Ceramics
Richard Mille closes its Coloured Ceramics chapter with three RM 07-01s, each capped at 50 pieces, and this time the headline act is gem-setting on TZP ceramic, no small feat given how unforgiving that material is under a setter’s tools. The grey PVD red gold dial layers laser-cut rubber appliqués against diamond-set white gold inserts, with guilloché adding yet another texture to an already busy surface. Underneath sits the skeletonised CRMA2, grade 5 titanium, automatic, 50-hour reserve off a fast-rotating barrel. Three ceramic shades on offer: blush pink, lavender pink, powder blue. The watch gives you Eighties energy with a present-day execution.
Ulysse Nardin Blast [Sparkling Rainbow]

Above Ulysse Nardin Blast [Sparkling Rainbow] (Photo: courtesy of Ulysse Nardin)
Ulysse Nardin’s Blast returns in a limited run of eight, this time wrapped in 211 invisibly set rainbow sapphires totalling 13.33 carats, spread across the case, bezel, dial and clasp. The 45mm white gold case still houses the UN-172 manufacture skeleton calibre, with its flying tourbillon and platinum micro-rotor on display at 12 o’clock, silicon escapement and hairspring intact, and 72 hours of power reserve. What makes this one worth a second look is the mystery setting: 85 different stone cuts, four weeks of decoration per piece, and not a speck of white gold visible from above. The Blast’s stealth-fighter architecture finally meets its match in colour.
Zenith Defy Extreme Chroma

Above Zenith Defy Extreme Chroma (Photo: courtesy of Zenith)
Zenith has decided that if you’re going to put two escapements in a watch, you might as well let everyone see them, and in colour. The Defy Extreme Chroma takes the El Primero 9004, the calibre that splits time to 1/100th of a second using a 5Hz regulator for timekeeping and a separate 50Hz regulator for the chronograph, and PVD-coats its bridges in a full spectrum. The black openworked dial mirrors that palette through its rhodium-plated markers and hand tips, while the star-shaped rotor gets its own treatment, blue on the titanium piece, green on the white ceramic version. Limited to 100 each, with the usual three-strap quick-change system thrown in.
H Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Rainbow

Above H Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Rainbow (Photo: courtesy of H Moser & Cie)
The Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Rainbow is a bit of an anomaly for H Moser & Cie, a brand that rarely bothers with stones. Sixty baguette-cut sapphires, 2.90 carats in total, run around the cushion-shaped case in an invisible setting, graduating in both colour and size to follow the curve of the Streamliner silhouette. Behind that sits the HMC 814, a fully skeletonised manufacture calibre with a one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, double hairspring from sister company Precision Engineering AG, and a 72-hour power reserve. Available in 5N red gold or steel, both on integrated bracelets.
Read more: Watches and Wonders 2026: the best jewellery watches at the fair
Exaequo Melting Watch Classico

Above Exaequo Melting Watch Classico (Photo: courtesy of Exaequo)
Exaequo’s Melting Watch Classico just landed at Time to Watches in Geneva, and the rainbow-numeral steel version is the standout of the bunch. The Classico line draws on Salvador Dalí, now backed by an official tie-up with the Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, and that surrealist streak comes through most clearly in the case, sculpted into the brand’s signature “melted” form as though the metal has begun to soften. The dial sits on two levels beneath a domed plexiglass crystal, which adds depth and makes the rainbow Arabic numerals look like they’re sliding across the white surface, a small splash of colour against the otherwise clean white dial. Power comes from the Swiss Made Ronda 751 quartz movement, water resistance is rated to 30 metres, and it sits on a matching metal bracelet. Only 329 pieces will be made, a nod to Dalí’s own quirky approach to numbering his limited editions, and the whole thing makes for a colourful, talking-point piece on the wrist.
Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow

Above Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow (Photo: courtesy of Hublot)
Hublot’s MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow takes the artist's smiling flower and turns it into a 42mm sapphire crystal case, twelve titanium petals each carrying a different gemstone in a different colour: rubies, pink sapphires, amethysts, blue sapphires, blue topazes, tsavorites, and yellow or orange sapphires, 444 stones in total. At the centre sits the HUB9015, Hublot’s first central flying tourbillon, visible through a domed crystal engraved with the flower's eyes and smile. It runs on a manual-winding calibre with a 120 hour power reserve, wound via a rechargeable stylus on the crown. Limited to 20 pieces, the MP-15 is proof that a relationship in full bloom comes in every shade, and form, and that’s exactly the point.





