The Richard Mille manufacture in Switzerland (Photo: courtesy of Richard Mille)
Cover Pro Art II, one of the buildings of the Manufacture Richard Mille (Photo: courtesy of Richard Mille)

Located in the Swiss Jura, the Richard Mille manufacture uses a combination of traditional know-how and futuristic vision to create watches that refuse to compromise on quality or technicality

Looking at the somewhat understated and classic façade of the buildings in Les Breuleux, it’s hard to imagine that this is where some of the industry’s most futuristic watches come to life. The discreet walls of the historic Montres Valgine building house the headquarters of a brand that sets collectors’ pulses racing: Richard Mille. It is at the heart of the Franches-Montagnes in the Swiss Jura that the brand has taken up residence, within the premises of the watchmaking company founded in 1900 by Ali Guenat—whose descendant, Dominique Guenat, joined forces in 1999 with his long-time friend Richard Mille to create the eponymous brand.

While the company may be young, that has not stopped it from acquiring cutting-edge expertise in terms of both mechanics and design. This savoir-faire can be measured by the phenomenal success of the watches it produces and the spectacular figures it has posted: sales of €500 million in 2022 (compared to €450 million in 2021); 210 employees in Les Breuleux; 39 boutiques around the world; an average retail price of CHF 250,000; a total of 5,400 units produced in 2022 and a target of 5,600 this year.

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Pushing back the walls

Tatler Asia
A watchmaker at work at the Richard Mille manufacture (Photo: courtesy of Richard Mille)
Above A watchmaker at work at the Richard Mille manufacture (Photo: courtesy of Richard Mille)

The brand’s exponential growth has led it to progressively expand the Montres Valgine building dedicated to the assembly of movements, the inspection of barrels and the fitting of dials, hands and straps. The first step was taken in 2013 when Pro Art I was built: a 32,000 sq ft contemporary building where watch cases are produced as well as certain components such as plates and bridges, screws and some wheels. This expansion continued in 2018 with the construction of the 27,000 sq ft Pro Art II facility housing the technical offices of the case and movement engineers, R&D teams and Art Direction department.

It is in this part of the manufacture that the first stage in creation of each new watch begins, based on a brief given by Mille’s management team. The wording is pared down to essentials, if one is to believe the example of the RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley: “to create a watch integrating the world of the Smiley, a tourbillon, as well as hours and minutes”—no more and no less.

The same principle applies to the RM UP-01 Ferrari, which, well before its launch, had to live up to the management’s desire to create “a watch that is as thin as possible yet sufficiently sturdy for everyday use, meeting all Richard Mille’s traditional technical characteristics”. From there, a long process began, starting with the development of the calibre. Since the creation of the in-house movement manufacturing department in 2008, Richard Mille has launched 15 in-house movements that equip 60 per cent of its production—with the remaining 40 per cent sourced from celebrated suppliers of high-end mechanical movements such as Vaucher or APLL.

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Aiming for perfection

Everything from the case to the movement, components’ resistance and their accuracy must meet a set of extremely demanding quality standards. From the beginning to the end of the production line, Richard Mille creations undergo between 50 and 60 different processes to achieve a level of quality verging on absolute perfection. To ensure there is no room for error, between 30 and 40 per cent of the components are rejected; for if there is one overriding principle from which Richard Mille has never departed since the beginning of its adventure, it is the desire to create watches that are made to be worn, resist shocks and stand the test of time with innovative, uncompromising horology.

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