Cover Richard Mille RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire in gem-set green
Richard Mille RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire in gem-set green
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A bold exploration of coloured sapphire sees Richard Mille push the boundaries of material science and design in modern horology
In 2012, Richard Mille revolutionised the watchmaking world with the introduction of the RM 056 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph, a timepiece encased entirely in sapphire.
While the transparency of sapphire initially captivated collectors and connoisseurs, Richard Mille had no intention of stopping there.
The brand embarked on an ambitious journey into the realm of coloured sapphire, culminating in a dazzling array of hues that exemplify the intersection of cutting-edge science and artistic craftsmanship.
Read more: Engineered for performance: The Richard Mille RM 65-01 McLaren W1
Above The process of crafting sapphire case is a challenging endeavour
The process of crafting sapphire case is a challenging endeavour
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But crafting coloured sapphire is no ordinary feat because unlike transparent sapphire, which is already notoriously challenging to produce and machine, the creation of vibrant sapphire hues—blue, green, orange, pink, and now lilac—requires the delicate infusion of metal oxides into sapphire’s crystalline structure. This process demands meticulous control of temperature and growth rates to ensure uniform colouration and avoid imperfections like bubbles or uneven distribution. Each block of sapphire, therefore, is not just a material but a triumph of precision engineering and material science.
Above RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire in lilac
RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire in lilac
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Richard Mille’s coloured sapphire journey reached a milestone with the RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire in 2015, a watch that combined technical brilliance with aesthetic innovation. Featuring a case made entirely of coloured sapphire and set with diamonds, this watch embodies Richard Mille’s relentless pursuit of perfection. The RM 07-02 collection has recently expanded with four new iterations, including a lilac sapphire model—a hue that underscores the brand’s commitment to pioneering fresh designs in haute horology.
Above RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire in gem-set green
Above RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire in gem-set green
RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire in gem-set green
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The gem-set dial of the RM 07-02 draws the eye with its geometric symmetry and intricate craftsmanship. Incorporating precious stones such as diamonds and sapphires alongside ornamental gems like spessartite and chrysoprase, the watch transforms into a vibrant canvas. Protected by its sapphire case, the CRMA5 skeletonised automatic movement ensures mechanical excellence, featuring a 50-hour power reserve and a red gold oscillating weight set with diamonds.
See also: A closer look at Formula 1 driver Charles Leclerc's Richard Mille watch during Monaco Grand Prix
Above Artisan polishing the sapphire case
Artisan polishing the sapphire case
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The appeal of sapphire goes beyond aesthetics. Rated 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness, it is second only to diamond, offering exceptional durability and scratch resistance. Its crystalline structure, composed of aluminium oxide, provides exceptional hardness and transparency. This unparalleled strength is matched by its visual properties—crystal-clear transparency and a radiant finish that enhances every detail of Richard Mille’s intricate movements.
Above Crafting sapphire case is a labour intensive process which takes a long time to craft
Crafting sapphire case is a labour intensive process which takes a long time to craft
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To create these sapphire cases, Richard Mille collaborates with Stettler AG, employing the Kyropoulos method to synthesise large sapphire blocks. This labour-intensive process involves heating aluminium oxide to over 2,000 degrees Celsius and encouraging slow crystal growth, often taking several weeks to complete. Each case requires over 1,000 hours of machining and polishing, with tolerances measured in microns.
Above The process of crafting the case is meticulous and precise
The process of crafting the case is meticulous and precise
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Setting gems into sapphire—a material that tolerates no margin for error—further showcases Richard Mille’s technical ingenuity. Using lasers for micrometer-precise drilling, artisans insert hand-polished gold prongs to hold rows of dazzling diamonds. This meticulous process enhances the inherent beauty of the sapphire cases, creating timepieces that are both resilient and opulent.
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Above RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire in green
RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire in green
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Richard Mille’s mastery of sapphire, especially in its coloured forms, represents a bold redefinition of luxury in watchmaking. By merging advanced materials science with unparalleled craftsmanship, Richard Mille has created watches that are not only technical marvels but also exquisite works of art.
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Images: Richard Mille
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Sim Wie Boon is the general manager of Tatler Malaysia. Previously the print and digital editor, Sim hails from the land of the hornbills, Sarawak. Sim is now based in Kuala Lumpur and brings more than a decade of experience in the media industry as a journalist and broadcast producer.
As a self-proclaimed geriatric millennial, he appreciates the finer things in life, from savouring a sip of single malt whisky to relishing in the deliciousness of char siew. While reminiscing about the indie-sleaze era, Sim now finds solace in the soothing tunes of ambient music, staying active through running and occasionally succumbing to the addictive world of doom scrolling.
Follow him on Instagram or Threads at @simwb
