Ming releases its latest dive watch, the 37.09 Bluefin, its first watch with an internally rotating dial

For a brand obsessed with technical perfection and details, it's somewhat surprising that it has been several years since Ming released a dedicated dive watch. But the wait is over with the unveiling of the 37.09 Bluefin, an elegant yet purposeful underwater companion rated to an impressive 600 metres.

While initial development aimed to surpass Ming's previous 18.01 H41 diver in capability, the prototypes became too thick and ungainly, the Malaysian watchmaker took a step back, deciding to craft a slimmer, more wearable tool watch within the aesthetic parameters of its 37-series cases.

Read more: Ming Thein on designs that reward observation

Tatler Asia
Tatler Asia
Tatler Asia

The result is the 37.09 Bluefin, measuring a restrained 38mm wide and just 12.8mm thick despite its extreme water resistance. Clever shaping of the front and rear sapphire crystals helped unlock a 900m crush depth rating in testing. The minimal case styling, with brushed and polished facets, gives the Bluefin a generous wrist presence, belying its compact dimensions.

Rather than a conventional rotating bezel, the timing functions have been internalised onto the dial itself. A sealed crown at 4 o'clock rotates the entire blue-tinted sapphire dial in 60 unidirectional clicks, progressively revealing timing scales and luminous indices beneath the domed crystal. It's an unconventional yet legible solution, quintessentially Ming.

See also: How Ming created one of the lightest watches

Tatler Asia
Tatler Asia
Tatler Asia

Ming hasn't skimped on lume either, with coloured Super-LumiNova compounds coating indices, hands, and markings for the underwater glow. A sandwiched blue metallisation on the dial face provides an inky, glossy backdrop that should age gracefully.

Powering the Bluefin is a customised Sellita SW300 movement with 50-hour power reserve and hacking seconds. But the star may be the newly developed FKM rubber strap. Moulded in an ergonomic, curved shape with textured surfaces, it promises to be Ming's most comfortable strap to date.

Tatler Asia

Ming is only producing 500 of this watch this year, with pricing at CHF 4,950 excluding taxes and it is available on its website with deliveries expected to commence from October 2024.

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Sim Wie Boon
General Manager, Tatler Malaysia, Tatler Malaysia
Tatler Asia

Sim Wie Boon is the general manager of Tatler Malaysia. Previously the print and digital editor, Sim hails from the land of the hornbills, Sarawak. Sim is now based in Kuala Lumpur and brings more than a decade of experience in the media industry as a journalist and broadcast producer.

As a self-proclaimed geriatric millennial, he appreciates the finer things in life, from savouring a sip of single malt whisky to relishing in the deliciousness of char siew. While reminiscing about the indie-sleaze era, Sim now finds solace in the soothing tunes of ambient music, staying active through running and occasionally succumbing to the addictive world of doom scrolling.

Follow him on Instagram or Threads at @simwb