What really impressed us at the first international watch fair of the year?
The first Watches and Wonders, which replaces the legendary Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), took place at the end of April. But what was different was that the international watch fair was not held at the Palexpo convention centre in Geneva, Switzerland—the typical venue for SIHH since 1991. Instead, due to the coronavirus pandemic that has struck the whole world, Watches and Wonders 2020 was hosted on a digital platform, giving global watch buffs a chance to see the year's novelties from 17 maisons, including Hermès, Speake-Marin and Richemont-owned brands such as Cartier, Montblanc and Vacheron Constantin, at the same time as the trade and press.
Online or offline, pandemic or not, it was business as usual at the fair as the participating brands continued to push boundaries in order to impress the cognoscenti. Most of the creations are clearly skewed towards being commercial-friendly, which is a right tack to adopt given that the retail scene for the first and second quarters of 2020 look extremely bleak. It's a skill and also an art form to develop timepieces that watch lovers the world over have a soft spot for, so there is no shame to focus on creating "commercial" pieces. But among the glut of retail- and customer-centric wristwatches seen at Watches and Wonders 2020, there were some horological bright spots that grabbed our attention. Here, we compile the 10 creations that impressed us.
1. Cartier Tank Asymétrique
In 1917, Louis Cartier introduced the iconic Tank watch. It was revolutionary because rectangular timepieces were rare during a time when most watches were round. Because of its popularity, the Tank saw many variations, one of which was the Parallélogramme or Losange in 1936. Everything on the dial was shifted 30 degrees to the right, resulting in the rectangular case of the original Tank transforming into a diamond. Cartier refreshes the beautiful parallelogram-shaped watch with the new Tank Asymétrique, which comes either skeletonised or with time only. All versions measure 47.15 x 26.2 mm—way bigger than the original and definitely boasting more prominent wrist presence—and are manual-winding and limited to only 100 pieces each.
Tatler says: It's not a regular case shape but we think the time-only variations—platinum with ruby cabochon on crown; pink gold with sapphire cabochon on crown; and yellow gold with sapphire cabochon on crown—will appeal to design buffs with a love for geometry.