A roundup of watches from Lucerne Watch Week 2026

Grand Seiko stood out with the Spring Dive UFA Ushio 300 Diver, their smallest diver’s watch to date. Once more, it has found that fine line between robustness and functionality. UFA, which stands for “ultra fine accuracy”, is not hyperbole. Inside is the Calibre 9RB1, which boasts an annual accuracy of just +/- 20 seconds. This has been achieved by sealing the crystal oscillator within, thereby minimising the influence of external factors such as temperature and electrical noise. Visually, it captivates with its gradient ushio (tide) dial, reminiscent of the waves found around the Japanese archipelago, which have become integral to the country’s art and culture.

While I expected to spend an unreasonable amount of time admiring the Le Petit Prince models of IWC Schaffhausen, I found myself drawn to the Pilot’s Vertical Drive Venturer, whose name alone evokes imagery of some experimental spacecraft. Its white rubber strap and minimalist bezel only reinforce its visual identity. It is purpose-built for use in zero- gravity, but at first glance, one might ask, “Where’s the crown?” In its absence is an innovative rotating bezel system that operates all the watch’s functions and is operable by astronauts wearing gloves. This unique winding system allows it to operate on Earth and in space.

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Since 2007, the HydroConquest from Longines has embraced its status as a diver’s watch in its own unique way, fusing functionality with a restrained appearance. At Lucerne Watch Week 2026, the Maison featured three additional references with Milanese mesh bracelets crafted from stainless steel. This adds considerable comfort to the wearer while retaining its understated refinement. Inside beats the in-house calibre L888.5 with a power reserve of 72 hours.

A relative newcomer to the scene, Norqain leverages its fun and sporty aesthetic to attract watch enthusiasts. The “Ice Cream” watch is a crowd favourite, and it has sweetened the deal with a new topping. Available in a strawberry or blue raspberry dial, the Freedom Chrono Enjoy Life “Sprinkles” is based on their catalogue’s Freedom 60 Chrono. Like its predecessor, a small ice cream cone is shown on the aperture between four and five o’clock. It is a whimsical energy seldom seen in haute horlogerie, and one that is sorely needed.

As a manufacture that began by creating military-grade watches, Panerai considers legibility an important element. One might expect issues in reading the skeletonised Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631, but as it turns out, this isn’t the case. Durability, clarity and performance remain tenets they abide by. The newly developed hand-wound P.2031/S calibre comprises 276 components, including four mainspring barrels that bestow it with a staggering power reserve of 31 days. The remaining energy level is displayed through a curved indicator, alongside a polarised date disc at the three o’clock window.

The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph is the brand’s headline timepiece, and they’re rightly proud of what they’ve created. Inside beats the in-house Calibre TH80-00, running at a frequency of 5 hz with a 70-hour power reserve, is built in a square shape specifically to fit the case. The chronograph function is nothing short of a triumph: rather than the traditional column-wheel or cam-and-lever architecture, the brand simplified the movement down to only what’s completely necessary, cutting out as much wear-and-tear as possible. It employs a bistable mechanism to start, stop and reset the chronograph—which sounds far simpler than its name might suggest.

There were no second thoughts about what I wanted to see most at Tudor. The Monarch recalls the early models of the Maison’s catalogue, but it is undeniably modern. The most visually striking part about it is that dial: the dark champagne colour and ever-so-subtle vertical brushing give it a tactile feel even without touching it. The indicators in the upper half are Roman numerals, while those in the lower half are Arabic numerals. However, this is where its old-world charm ends and the contemporary begins: inside is the calibre MT5662-2U, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS).

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