The blue indices, hands and crown offer a brilliant counterpoint to the purity of the dazzling diamonds
in this white gold version of the Clé de Cartier  

Without a doubt, horology enthusiasts and brand aficionados have come to expect something fresh and exciting from Cartier each year. As enthusiastic and successful as the maison has been in introducing various technical watchmaking advances through the years, its pioneering spirit of innovation also clearly manifests in the iconic design of its suite of timepieces.

In 1904, the square became synonymous with the Santos pilot watch; in 1917, the Tank was born and has come to own the rectangle; and in 2006, the sensuous curves of the circle were reimagined in the unconventional Ballon Bleu. While the asymmetric Crash, inspired by the crumpled shape of an oval Cartier ladies watch salvaged after a car crash, was an exercise in the maison’s creative savoir faire in 1967, the unusual case shape is like none other.

This year, the surprise from Cartier comes in the form of a new entry-level collection, the Clé de Cartier. Cle means “key” in French and refers to the key-shaped crown the collection is named after. While the collection retains the distinctive styling of a Cartier dial, its case design leans towards the traditional, with both a cushion-shaped case and a crown inspired by the past.

Simple yet innovative, the design of this collection has taken ergonomics into consideration, and fits comfortably on the wrist

Looks-wise, the Clé de Cartier collection is already a winner with an elegantly simple, streamlined and ergonomic profile that would fit snugly on the wrist. The round dial bears all the hallmarks of the familiar Cartier aesthetic, with bold Roman numerals in deep blue, an opalescent guilloched centre encircled by a pearl-white rim and a simple minutes track, and blue-steeled hands. In place of the 6 o’clock hour marker is an aperture for the date enhanced with a guilloched border. The perfectly circular form of the dial is elongated by a gently rounded bezel and smoothly tapered horns into a cushion-shape case that is reminiscent of the ovoid cases seen in the late ’60s and ’70s.

Fans of Cartier would already know that the manufacture has a rich heritage of creating innovative crowns—think the protruding blue sapphire cabochon on the Tank and the beautiful “blue balloon” crown of the Ballon Bleu encased within a prominent crown guard. In the case of the Clé de Cartier, the key-shaped crown marks the first time the manufacture has conceived a rectangular crown fitted with its signature blue sapphire flushed into the surrounding metal. 

This ingenious design isn’t just a nostalgic nod to the days of key-wound clocks and pocket watches, but also offers a sensorial and acoustic delight. When pulled out, the pivoting crown allows wearers to wind and set the watch as if they are turning an antique key in a clock. The new indexed winding system is built such that it is a breeze to use, and removes any possibility that the wearer might accidentally move the hands after adjusting the time. Specifically, twisting and pushing the crown back to its original position brings on a gentle, reassuring click.

Intrinsic Value 

The Clé de Cartier collection features over 20 models in three sizes: 40mm, 35mm and 31mm. The 40mm and 35mm models house the new Calibre 1847 MC automatic movement that is fully developed, crafted and assembled in-house by the manufacture—in place of the typical ETA movement used for the brand’s various entry-level or high-volume models. Its importance as a new movement is underscored by its very name: the year of the maison’s creation, and in fact, industry watchers are expecting this movement to eventually replace the non in-house movements used in Cartier’s other collections.

Following the same design principles of the Clé de Cartier case, the 1847 MC movement is the result of a pared-down approach and a focus on efficiency. A particularly rapid barrel is incorporated to afford it supreme chronometric stability, while the dual-direction winding mechanism is made extremely robust and stable by the Magic Lever system. 

Measuring 25.6mm in diameter and decorated with stamped Geneva stripes, the movement boasts a semi-instantaneous date indicator and an impressive power reserve of 42 hours. What’s more, it is Cartier’s most affordable in-house movement yet—remarkable news for buyers who have always wished for a more attractive value proposition. At this moment, the watch only comes in white or rose gold. The 40mm model is available with a crocodile leather strap or a matching integrated gold bracelet. The 35mm and 31mm models offer more options: rose or white gold, with or without brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, or dressed in full pave diamonds even on the bracelet.

The Clé de Cartier adapts itself to both genders, taking on a beautiful form for the ladies, and a handsome profile for men

The 40mm models are supposed to be men’s watches and the smaller models the ladies’, but we reckon the Clé de Cartier collection’s clean lines and elegance render it extremely versatile. The rose gold watch with leather strap is perfect as a classic wardrobe staple for men or a sharp statement piece for women; the white gold model with matching gold bracelet is a handsome accompaniment to a sporty outfit; and the feminine gold bracelet models can easily take women from boardroom to matinee. Steel models are usually rolled out within a year or two of a collection’s launch, so watch this space.