October 2020: What's New In Watches
Cool collaborations and updated classics are reshaping luxury watchmaking this month
Unveiled earlier this year during LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, the Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin-Polished Steel is now available with a polished, lacquered, navy-blue dial. “It’s great for dressing up or dressing down,” says CEO Jean-Christophe Babin. “You can wear it from the tennis court to the boardroom.”
Carl F Bucherer
Launched in 2016, the Manero Flyback has become an icon for Swiss watchmaker Carl F Bucherer. The Manero is already available in multiple colours and straps, including a luxurious all-gold edition and a racing-inspired model. Beautifully designed and slightly retro, a new deep blue dial, as well as a stainless steel bracelet option, have just hit boutiques.
Patek Philippe’s spectacular Ref 5270 Chronograph with a perpetual calendar, which displays the day, date and month, is now available in yellow gold. Elegant and timeless, this watch comes with a concave bezel and fluted lugs. That’s not to mention the silvery opaline dial, which is breathtakingly beautiful. Powered by Patek’s in-house Calibre CH 29-535 PS Q, which houses a total of 496 parts, this watch is extremely slender and sophisticated.
For years, women’s watches have been limited to jewellery style pieces, but executives at Audemars Piguet have been working to change that. To demonstrate that exceptional examples of watchmaking and women’s high fashion can coexist, CEO Francois-Henry Bennahmias has collaborated with London designers Ralph & Russo.
“Our partnership with Ralph & Russo came together naturally,” he says of the campaign, which pairs couture gowns with Audemars Piguet’s inventive models. “The fun part was when we realised that our watches had already been paired with Ralph & Russo’s exceptional designs many times by clients in real life.”
Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled the Tondagraph GT Steel Black, which is arguably one of the sportiest watches in the brand’s Tonda collection thanks, in part, to its mirror-polished steel case, which can be worn with either a rubber strap or integrated bracelet.
But this model doesn’t abandon the watchmaker’s meticulous approach to tradition: the case shape is inspired by the Tonda Chronor watch, which was awarded the Chronograph Watch Prize from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Gen.ve in 2017. And teardrop lugs and matching chronograph pushers that start, stop and reset the piece’s timing function are captivatingly classic.
The latest additions to Tudor’s Royal range are ideally suited to everyday wear. An integrated bracelet, notched bezel and automatic movement define these watches, which sit at the crossroads between classic and contemporary. Choose from stainless steel or stainless steel and gold, as well as nine—yes, nine!—possible dials.
Panerai’s watches are instantly recognisable—they’re rugged, cushion-shaped and inspired by the sea. And the brand’s latest model, Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm, celebrates all of that. It also gives us an insight into what we can expect from the watchmaker over the coming months.
Sharp angles and polished surfaces add to the piece’s no-nonsense aesthetic and, although modern, pay tribute to Panerai’s visual codes of the 1990s. Equipped with a handsome blue satiné dial that’s etched with green Super-LumiNova, it’s worn on a blue calfskin strap with beige stitching. Perhaps the old ways are the best.
The latest edition of Hublot’s flagship model comes in a satin-finished ceramic, which is incredibly lightweight and easy to wear. The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue’s skeletonised dial showcases the watch’s inner workings and is worn with a white fabric or blue-and-white rubber strap.
Roger Dubuis has, once again, outdone itself with the launch of the Excalibur Aventador S. For years, this exciting brand has combined its watchmakers’ technical expertise with a courageous sense of creativity, which has resulted in some of watchmaking’s most astonishing timepieces. The Excalibur Aventador S is powered by an exclusive and specially developed Duotor calibre that’s shaped like a Lamborghini engine.
Watches & Wonders Shanghai
Most watch fairs were cancelled because of Covid-19, but one new luxury watch fair was able to go ahead last month in China. Watches & Wonders Shanghai was held between September 9 to 13 at the West Bund Art Center. The invitation-only event saw exclusive watch releases by brands including A Lange & Söhne, Cartier and Piaget.
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