Cover Toric Hemisphères Rétrograde by Parmigiani Fleurier. (Photo: Courtesy of Parmigiani Fleurier)

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”—these luxury watchmakers have revamped their own classic models with new additions to their most iconic collections

1. Freak X by Ulysee Nardin

The 2019 Freak X retains the classic Ulysee Nardin Freak characteristic of having no dial and no hands, instead using its baguette-shaped central bridge of the carousel as a minute hand and one of the wheels to indicate hours.

Although its mechanics have been pared back and simplified to increase legibility, and the striking dial has shrunk from 45mm to a slightly easier-wearing 43mm.

The main departure from previous Freak models is the Freak X's inclusion of a crown for time correction. Instead of the previous slightly awkward time-setting bezel, the X is equipped with a traditional crown used purely for time setting.

See also: The Fine Watch Club Offers Rare, Exclusive, Limited-Edition Watches to Members Only

2. Toric Hemisphères Rétrograde by Parmigiani Fleurier

Historic references to ancient Greece, mathematics and nature abound in Parmigiani Fleurier’s designs, and no collection embodies this better than the Toric.

The first watch created by the company in 1997, it was revived in updated form in 2017.

For 2019, three handsome new slate-dialled models have been added to the collection: a chronometer, a perpetual calendar and a mechanically ingenious dual time-watch—the latter two incorporating retrograde date displays in addition to their other complications.

Put simply, these three new timepieces sum up (almost) everything that makes Parmigiani Fleurier so special and so different.

See also: SIHH 2019: Tatler Watch Picks From Day 4

3. Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date by Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin has released a new addition to its Patrimony collection. Designed with discretion and perfection in mind, the minimalist watch achieves a striking, beautiful balance between clean, taut lines and smooth curves.

Achieving a pure, simplistic design can be challenging, because the timepiece must maintain its high technical complexity behind the pared-back, slender case. Patrimony fully captures the effervescence of the 1950s–a symbol of renewal, it's classy and understated.

See also: Inside Vacheron Constantin's 'One Of Not Many' Party

4. Master Grand Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétual by Jaeger-LeCoultre

A classic Jaeger-LeCoultre manual-winding Reverso in stainless steel is arguably the best watch you can buy for under US$10,000. At the other end of the spectrum is the manufacturer’s new Master Grand Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétual, priced about US$900,000 (plus tax).

This new ultra-complicated beauty boasts a hypnotic multi-axis spherical gyrotourbillon Westminster carillon, the tune familiar to neighbours of Westminster Palace in London.

This latest JLC Gyro, the house’s fifth since launching the series in 2004, also contains a two-way perpetual calendar. And wait, there’s more: a constant force mechanism means the movement maintains accuracy whether the power reserve is high or low.

See also: SIHH 2019: Tatler Watch Picks From Day 2

5. Avenue Classic 20th Anniversary Moon Phase by Harry Winston

Paying tribute to the maison’s Fifth Avenue Flagship Salon, Harry Winston’s Avenue Classic 20th Anniversary Moon Phase continues the Avenue collection's legacy, which was released in 1999 and inspired by the architecture of the brand’s original home: New York.

This anniversary timepiece is set with 50 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, case and crown. The glitz and glamour continues around the white gold bracelet, which features 216 blue and purple sapphires and 66 more brilliant-cut diamonds.

This limited edition of 20 pieces is as iconic as the hallmark doorway leading into Fifth Avenue Salon.

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