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Meet Hautlence HL2.3 Punk, the edgiest creation yet from an independent watchmaker that relishes breaking conventions.
Launched in 2010, the HL2.0 movement broke conventions for a number of reasons, the most visible of which is the escapement system that moves together with the half-trailing jumping hour at the start of a new hour. Its rotation at a precise 60˚ angle every hour apparently compensates for the effects of gravity – like the spinning-on-an-axis tourbillon, only cooler.
Both the trailing hours – which are made up of a 12-link chain – and the mobile bridge are patented. The third patent is the two-barrel system, one barrel for the movement in general and another specifically for feeding energy to the patented complication.
Also see: The Hautlence HL Vagabonde created specially for Cortina Watch
Above Side profile
Side profile
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A speed regulator at the centre of the retrograde minute is responsible for controlling the speed of the barrel, which contributes to the smooth and shock-free operation of the complication. The video below offers a fuller picture of this remarkable movement – watch closely when it jumps to a new hour.
Also see: The must-have watches from 5 independent Swiss brands
This incredibly innovative movement may have met its kindred spirit, in terms of design, in the new HL2.3 Punk. The punk movement is characterised by its advocacy for freedom of individual expression, something that both Hautlence and the HL2.0 clearly stand for.
Taking a leaf from punk’s penchant for studs, Hautlence has incorporated 84 studs of various sizes onto the case, which itself is a stunner composed of three sapphire crystals cut from solid blocks. Its transparency throughout offers an unimpeded view of the fascinating inner workings of the movement.
Above Maximum transparency to better appreciate details of the movement
Maximum transparency to better appreciate details of the movement
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All in all, it captures the punk look quite nicely. The only “outsider” in the whole rebellion is the very conventional black alligator strap with a folding clasp in titanium and 18k 4N rose gold. Only one piece of HL2.3 Punk will ever be produced.
Also see: 3 independent watchmakers on being rebels with a cause
Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
