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With the Emerald Collection, Harry Winston has transformed a classic gemstone style into a versatile line of timepieces
Just as how the vast majority of timepieces today are round, the most common style for contemporary gemstones—especially diamonds—is the brilliant cut. Harry Winston's eponymous founder, however, preferred something else. His favourite style for diamonds was the emerald cut. It was, in his opinion, the most flattering way to present diamonds and other precious stones. To pay tribute to Mr Winston’s penchant for this shape, the brand unveiled its Emerald Collection of watches in 2016. The line has grown into a fully-fledged collection since then, with various models offered across a range of sizes to suit both men and women.
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Above Harry Winston Emerald Collection
Harry Winston Emerald Collection
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Classic Yet Contemporary
The distinguishing feature of the Emerald Collection is its octagonal shape, which alludes to the emerald cut. The similarities don’t end there. Note, for instance, how the case’s proportions parallel those of the ideal emerald cut, and how the bezel of the 33mm models is faceted to resemble the ones surrounding a gemstone’s table.
Of course, the designs of the Emerald Collection’s timepieces have been tweaked. For one, the flanks of the watch cases bear the slightest hint of a curve instead of being perfectly straight. This departure from the strict rectilinear design elements that define Art Deco doesn’t just lend a contemporary air to the line, but also reveals Harry Winston’s willingness to experiment with and improve on tried-and-tested formulas.
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Above A 2021 novelty from the Emerald Collection
A 2021 novelty from the Emerald Collection
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Versatility Embodied
Today, the Emerald Collection sports a range of references that will suit aficionados of both genders. The core models are currently offered in two sizes. The smaller version measures 17.7mm by 24mm, and has various options in terms of colourway, case material, strap type, as well as gem-setting.
Above Harry Winston Emerald Collection
Harry Winston Emerald Collection
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New for this year are a series of four line extensions in this size sporting bright and bold designs. All of them have been rendered in white gold, with coloured mother-of-pearl dials set with diamonds and mother-of-pearl cabochons. The play with light extends to their bezels and lugs, which have been set with diamonds, and all four timepieces are available with either a matching satin double twirl strap, or a white gold Milanese mesh bracelet.
Harry Winston Emerald Collection
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In contrast, existing references in this size also come in rose gold and yellow gold, with more classic options such as satin-brushed dials with sunray patterns in dark blue being offered.
Above Harry Winston Emerald Automatic 33mm
Above Harry Winston Emerald 33mm (quartz) set with 94 brilliant-cut diamonds
Harry Winston Emerald Automatic 33mm
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The larger model in the Emerald Collection clocks in at 33.3mm by 39.3mm, which makes it suitable for the modern man, or the lady who simply prefers a stronger statement on her wrist. The line’s Art Deco influences are presented more strongly here, simply because they are more obvious. Size difference aside, this model also has a date display at six o'clock, and is available with either a quartz or a mechanical self-winding movement. References sporting the mechanical movement are distinguished by the additional central seconds hand.
With its strong, distinctive look, the Emerald Collection is a compelling choice for connoisseurs who admire striking design that’s backed by tasteful execution. Clearly, there’s much to look forward to from this line in the years ahead.
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