Cover Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC275 (Photo: Grand Seiko)

On the 20th anniversary of its 9R Spring Drive movement series, Grand Seiko welcomes new iridescent GMT and GMT chronograph timepieces

Grand Seiko had humble beginnings. It was officially birthed in 1960 as a division of the same name in Japanese watch brand Seiko, which was established in 1881 and shares a founder in Kintaro Hattori. Set up with the purpose of creating highly precise and stunningly handcrafted watches, the division was a reflection of Hattori’s great interest in and flair with fine watchmaking. To bolster the unique appeal and broaden the reach of the Grand Seiko luxury watches, Grand Seiko stepped out from Seiko in 2017, becoming a separate manufacturer within the Seiko Group Corporation.

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Above Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC275 (Photo: Grand Seiko)

Today, Grand Seiko is synonymous with ingenious technologies such as its Spring Drive, which was released in 1999 and enables a quartz battery to drive a mechanical gear train. Another epic milestone of the brand was when the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant‑force Tourbillon clinched the Chronometry Prize at the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

The dials of Grand Seiko watches are canvases on which the brand’s artisans showcase new and intricate decorative techniques, resulting in highly sought‑after ones such as the White Birch and Snowflake. As with most mainline Seiko watches, Grand Seiko watches have stainless steel cases, though they sometimes come with cases in gold, platinum and titanium. The Grand Seiko novelties presented at Watches and Wonders 2024 continue to champion these distinctive traits.

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Above Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC275 (Photo: Grand Seiko)

In the 1960s, during the early days of the Grand Seiko division, Seiko Group Corporation’s goal was to create the world’s most accurate watch and its efforts paid off when Seiko was named the official timekeeper of the 1964 Tokyo Olympics. On the aesthetic side of things, Seiko hired design specialist Taro Tanaka around this time, who instated Seiko’s “Grammar of Design”—guiding principles that still govern Grand Seiko’s elegant creations today.

Grand Seiko’s relentless pursuit of highly precise chronometry carries on till this day, as evident in new models such as the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Automatic Spring Drive 3‑Day GMT SBGE307 and the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC275. The former has an impressive accuracy of 15 seconds per month and the latter, 10 seconds per month.

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Above The Grand Seiko Sport Collection Automatic Spring Drive 3‑Day GMT SBGE307 sports a two‑tone bezel (Photo: Grand Seiko)

Their Tokyo Lion case design was inspired by the lion, a symbol of the brand that has graced many a Grand Seiko watch, including the very first released in 1960. Meant to evoke a lion’s claw, the angular case has hairline finishing and Zaratsu polishing that accentuate its visual depth. The dial, meanwhile, recalls a lion’s mane, an effect achieved through a delicate textured pattern. 

Grand Seiko is known for applying rare artisanal techniques to create dials, such as the Kira‑Zuri, Lake Suwa and White Birch, that change in appearance when they catch the light from different angles. Leveraging this selling point, the manufacturer fashioned the dials of the SBGC275 and SBGE307 using its patented Optical Multilayer Coating process—involving the application of multiple layers of nanoscale film on a dial—which causes the colours on the dials to change dramatically when they are held to the light at different angles.

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Above A red GMT hand contrasts with the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Automatic Spring Drive 3‑Day GMT SBGE307’s snowy markers and hands, and dial with Optical Multilayer Coating (Photo: Grand Seiko)

Equipped with the calibre 9R66, a Spring Drive automatic movement with a 72‑hour power reserve, the SBGE307 has a power reserve indicator at the 7 o’clock position and a crimson GMT hand that can be adjusted independently from its hour hand.

With an orange‑hued dial inspired by the sunrise and sunset over the Hotaka mountain range, the SBGC275 has pointers and indices that glow green in the dark, along with numerals and a GMT hand that glow blue. Juxtaposing its shimmering main dial are the sunburst finishes of the chronograph subdials, deliberately placed asymmetrically to attain a unique aesthetic. Driven by the calibre 9R96, a Spring Drive automatic chronograph movement with a GMT function and a 72‑hour power reserve, the SBGC275 is limited to 700 pieces.

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Above The dial on the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC275 glistens from a light orange to a dark brown, thanks to the brand’s Optical Multilayer Coating (Photo: Grand Seiko)

Crafted from high‑intensity titanium, which is 30 per cent lighter than stainless steel, both timepieces have bold 44.5 mm cases and H‑link bracelets that are designed for an ergonomic fit. Turn them over to admire the striped rotors that wind these watches.

The SBGC275 is available at Grand Seiko boutiques and authorised retailers from this month, while the SBGE307 will be available from this August.

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